In recent years, the number of Irish models has risen. Estimates of exactly how many there are in the country vary. A recent report counted approximately 300 women and up to 175 men as full- and part-time models.

Although demand for them has broadened somewhat in recent years with the introduction of designer brands, high-end boutiques and bigger advertising budgets, we're still nowhere near the likes of London, Paris or Milan and we never will be.

As a result, many combine part-time jobs with modelling. Others spend a few months a year working on the international scene, whilst some are still in college. It's a far cry from the time when there were a limited number of models in the country, nearly all of whom worked full-time. "When I was a model there were fewer models and fewer jobs, " says former model Mari O'Leary, who gave up modelling in 1988. "Those who were models worked consistently. Now there are a lot more models and there's only so much work to go around."

The typical Irish model too has changed. While once she was demure, elegant and to a large extent anonymous (think Jean O'Reilly, Grace O'Shaughnessy and later Alison Doody, Sonia Reynolds and Angela Dunne) now she has to be self-promoting and have her wits about her.

Some would say that Irish models can be classed into two camps . . . those who do the photo-calls and promotional work and those who choose not to. The likes of Glenda Gilson and Andrea Roche have made their name by advertising products and in the process created a new product in itself . . . The Irish celebrity model or 'personality models' as they're known in the business. The Irish media, hungry for home-grown celebrities in a culture obsessed with fame, has. of course. helped this phenomenon no end.

But there are also many others who shun photo-calls and commercials, preferring to remain unknown to the public and choosing instead to do editorial, catalogue and catwalk work.

Many of these spend months each year working abroad. In recent years, we've even produced a number of top international models, Catriona Balfe being a perfect example.

"In my time, nobody recognised me off the catwalk, " says O'Leary. "It was really only the Miss Irelands who were 'personality models'." She adds that there's now more press photo-calls and promotional jobs than in the past. "When I first started I did some promotional work, " she says. "But later I moved into the fashion end of the business. There were always groups who did photo-calls and promotional work and those that did editorials and catwalks. I think these days the groups are still there but the models don't necessarily cross over anymore."

Eddie Shanahan, who once owned the biggest modelling agency in the country, but now works in marketing, agrees.

"There are some great models in Ireland at the moment but there are also some who would be classed as merely social butterflies. There were always girls who did photo-calls but they were a different breed to fashion models.

"In my agency, nobody would dress up as a frog and sit on a fridge, " he says with disdain. "My girls were extremely professional and I believe the standards have dropped in recent years. I've encountered girls who turn up late, smoke during photo sessions, take mobile phone calls during shows or leave early to meet their boyfriends after a show. That's just not on.

Of course not all Irish models are like that, " he adds. "There are many professional ones too, but what people have to realise is that it's not just looks that make a super model, attitude is all-important."

Shanahan adds that in his opinion payment for modelling in this country has not kept pace with the cost of living. "Eight years ago a model could earn £450 a day (equivalent to 600).

Now the basic rate is 600- 800 a day. When you take inflation into account you realise they're actually being paid less than they used to be."

In Shanahan's time, there were only ever two or three main modelling agencies in the country and that's one aspect of the business which remains the same. "There are a few extra agencies but the only real players now are the Assets, Morgan and 1st Option agencies, " he says. "The others just don't cut the mustard."

These are the people who take the bookings, negotiate the fees, advise the girls on everything from diet to how to deal with rejection. They have the power to make or break a model's career but who exactly are the Irish model makers?

Rebecca Morgan It was Rebecca Morgan's mother, Nan, who began the Morgan model agency in 1973. Rebecca Morgan has been working for the agency for most of her life and is well-known in the business.

These days, the Morgan agency has 50 to 60 models on its books, although not all are based in Ireland. "The main change in the industry in recent years has been a growth in international modelling, " says Morgan. "Many of our girls are now based abroad."

The agency caters for catwalks, photo-shoots and has a large commercial section which provides anyone from children to grandparents for television and photographic ad campaigns.

Although it does a limited number of photo-calls it tries to stay clear of them. "Let's face it, dressing up as a bunny rabbit is somewhat degrading for any model, " says Morgan. "I try to steer my models clear of those types of jobs. There is a seedy side to the industry, " she adds. "It's necessary to be aware of it. Everybody has the power of choice. It helps to have a strong personality in this business and be able to make it work for you."

Morgan sees hundreds of girls walk through her door each year, each hoping to be the next Kate Moss. So what exactly does she look for? "The minimum height in this country is five foot, eight inches, " she says. "For an international model, you need to be five foot, nine inches. If, however, the model is very individual then sometimes height can be overlooked. I don't think there is a specific look at the moment, " she adds. "I watch out for basic, even features; good bone structure, good teeth, and good hair. A quirky look can sometimes work too. Remember, the job of a model is to be a chameleon; she has to be able to look completely different at different times. She has to have a look that can be developed." She points out that she also has some foreign models on her books. "Because there is more movement in and out of the country there are of course different nationalities in Ireland."

Personality too is important in modelling. "With some people it just oozes out of them, " comments the model maker. "It's a hard quality to define but a lot of it is the ease people have with themselves; it's almost bordering on spirituality."

Although it can be a stressful job, most of the time Morgan likes what she does for a living. "The best moments are when you see someone achieving what they set out to do. It's very rewarding when a young girl comes back from abroad with beautiful tearsheets and an air of confidence about her."

Derek Daniels Derek Daniels and his partner Mags Humphries set up Assets modelling agency 14 years ago. Before that, Daniels was a model for a different agency at which Humphries was a booker.

When it closed down, they decided to go it alone in what he says is an extremely competitive industry. "It's highly competitive, " he says with emphasis. "I have to be aware of the market at any given time and find the right face to fit each job."

It's Daniels' job to assess young people who come to his agency hoping to be the next big thing. "I'll know straight away if someone has modelling potential, " he says. "What's more, I've spotted many of the top models in this country. I found Brian Fallon at a photographic exhibition. I told him he could be really big if he cut his hair, which he did. Yvonne Connolly Keating was a receptionist in a hair salon on Grafton Street when someone told me about her. I also discovered Catriona Balfe; probably Ireland's biggest modelling export, packing bags for charity in Dunnes Stores."

Daniels advises anyone thinking of becoming a model to go along to a reputable agency before they do anything. "The best agencies are in the capital cities of any country, " he says.

"That's where the work is and let's face it, the main Irish ones are all located in Dublin except for perhaps Celia Holman Lee in Limerick. I wouldn't advise anyone to go to a provincial modelling agency because the standard is not the same."

When a model comes to Assets, they recommend a photographer who will take appropriate photographs for their portfolio. Assets doesn't charge a fee but the photographer may cost up to 200. Daniels emphasises the importance of having good photographs.

"It's important that the first photos taken are good because they're the first impression of the model." He points out that although it is rare in Dublin there are some agencies in other parts of Ireland who take advantage of young people hoping to break into the business. "I mean I'm bald but it would make hairs sprout on my head to hear the rates some companies are charging."

Assets currently has 12 full-time and 20 part-time models on their books. "Because we're a small country here's only room for so many full-time models at any time, " he says. "We're not Milan, we're not Paris; there's only so many jobs to go around and the full-time models have to make a living out of them."

The company takes 20% of all modelling fees, which is the norm in this country.

The model booker contradicts claims that models are underpaid. "I think Eddie Shanahan's comment on modelling rates is laughable, " he says. "Considering that he is one of our clients and he always squabbles over the cost of a model. In my opinion, models are well-paid in comparison to other jobs. The problem is that the work is sporadic."

Julian Fallon A former model who set up the 1st Options modelling agency nine-and-a-half years ago, Julian Fallon is passionate about her job. "I'm very lucky, " she confides. "I have an office job that is fun, interesting and hugely rewarding."

Fallon, who began her career with the Ross Talent agency at the age of 15, knows all about the industry; she's been a model, a booking agent, a production designer and now she runs her own successful business.

She stresses that unlike others, 1st Options focuses on fashion bookings more than anything else. "We are a fashion model agency. We don't do photocalls, " she says, explaining that many of her bookings are for international clients and her models travel regularly to Japan, Australia, New York, Milan and Paris. "When I first set up the agency, I knew that I wanted to do something different and branch out into the international scene. I'd learnt so much from working with Eddie Shanahan and it was when his model agency closed down that I saw there was an opening. My very first booking was with Italian Marie Claire, " she adds. "It was so exciting to be starting off in a business I knew so much about, but it was scary too. I was only 26 at the time."

Fallon's gamble paid off, however. These days, she has 30 fulltime models on her books and nine part-timers, most of whom are in college. She was also the first in the country to provide hairdressers, make-up artists and stylists. Now it's common practice.

"My motto is quality not quantity, " she says. "I always wanted to keep the business small but friendly. I work on having a good rapport with both my models and my clients."

The 1st Options agency also runs the annual Ford Super Model competition; it represents a number of entertainment personalities and has been responsible for catwalk models like Rachael Hunter and Caprice visiting Ireland.

"When people walk through our door, we're always honest with them, " says Fallon. "If they're not model material they might be suited to working in other areas of the entertainment business . . . anything from television presenting to hairdressing. So we generally try to find out where exactly their talents lie."

She emphasises that unlike some other agencies, 1st Option doesn't charge an initial fee for portfolio photographs. "I think it's shocking the way some agencies rip off young girls, " she says. "I've seen parents re-mortgage their houses and sell jewellery to pay for photographs for their daughter's portfolio and it's just not right."

At 1st Options, the agency provides the photographs for the model and when they begin to earn money the cost is deducted. "There is one agency outside of Dublin which charges up to 8,000 for photographs and a grooming course. It's a complete rip-off because many of the girls don't even go on to become models. There's another Dublin agency that charges for the photographs. I think that's wrong too."