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The restaurant Owned by Michel Roux, this intimate Suffolk outpost of the Roux empire strays surprisingly far from its owner's Gallic roots. I started with a meltingly delicious homecured haddock gravadlax, followed by honey roast pork belly on a bed of cabbage and lentils. My wife was tempted by the twice-baked cheese souffle, but being in the early stages of pregnancy thought it safer to order a seasonal salad marinated 'a la Grecque'. Her panfried fillet of beef came rubbed in star-anise and cumin, and moistened by a tarragon jus.
The view Sit by the windows and you can try counting the different heritage-style shades that the town's justifiably famous timberframed houses come painted in. The view inside is arguably even more theatrical, a large section of the restaurant floor being a plate-glass window through which the wine cellar can be viewed.
Diners suffering acute vertigo may prefer the wine list.
The bill Starters range from 6.50 for a shellfish bisque to 18 for a terrine of foie gras.
My gravadlax cost 10.20.
My wife's beef was the most expensive main course, at 24, but she wasn't drinking alcohol so our bill came in at just under 100 minus service, for some confident, above average cooking.
The White Hart Inn, High Street, Nayland, Suffolk, England (0044 1206 263382; www. whitehart-nayland. co. uk)
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YOU ARE HERE: 19 March 2007 / tribune.ie / 2006 / 01 / 08
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