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Getting high in Whistler



I WATCHED with growing apprehension as my fellow journalist, Diana, glided to a halt in the middle of the cable-line. "W. . . why has she stopped?" I nervously asked our guide, a relentlessly cheery Aussie called James. "Oh, that happens sometimes. We'll pull her in, no problem, " he said airily.

But there WAS a problem. I was next in line.

Trussed up like a Thanksgiving turkey in a nylon harness, I looked down at the river rushing through the canyon several hundred feet below the edge of the wooden platform where I was standing, and then looked up at the thin rope shackled to the wire line. The rope and shackle which were going to speed me at 30 miles an hour, over the sheer drop to foamy oblivion.

"I'm not sure. . ." I began, and then James gently but firmly pushed me off the platform.

And suddenly I was flying free, scudding downstream all on my ownsome along 1,100 feet of cable to the far platform.

"UP THE IRISH!" I roared for no particular reason, other than it was better than AAARGH HELPPPP! By the time I reached the far platform, I knew one thing for certain . . . I wanted another go, as soon as possible. I was so high on adrenaline that someone could've rolled me up and smoked me.

Ziptreking is just one good reason to go to the stunningly beautiful village of Whistler, which nestles at the foot of two mountains, about two hours north of Vancouver. Known primarily as a top-class ski resort (it was voted the number one ski resort in North America for six consecutive years from 19982003), it's a haven for lovers of the great outdoors. In winter, the twin peaks of Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains have 200 ski-runs, from beginner to advanced, and in summer, golf and mountain-biking are the attractions.

But Whistler's unique adventure activity, ziptrek, offers an extraordinary adrenaline rush. And, as ecology is a big concern in British Columbia, it combines thrills with a treetop tour along wooden boardwalks which zigzag through the dense temperate rainforest covering the two mountains. There are five 'ziplines' which get progressively higher, and two more are about to open, the last of which will deposit the ziptreker right back at the village, and close to a well-needed drink.

And for those who prefer to be shaken and stirred in a non-sporting manner, there are 90 apres-ski bars and restaurants in the village . . . including the ubiquitous Irish bar, the Dubh Linn Gate and the heavenly Bearfoot Bistro which has a wine-cellar of 25,000 bottles.

And there are hotels aplenty, including the gorgeous Four Seasons. It is very close to the base of the mountains which is convenient for skiers. Nor is it a bit sniffy, like some luxury hotels; the staff are warm and welcoming and don't mind a bit if you trail snow through the lobby. It boasts a cosy restaurant specialising in delicious seafood dishes, and a spa for post-ski massages.

There is a lack of formality and a friendliness about Whistler which makes it a particularly beguiling resort which would suit anyone, from families to piste-heads to groups of adventure junkies. But check it out soon . . .

Whistler is set to take the world stage when it hosts the Winter Olympics in 2010.

In fact, this laid-back attitude can be found in the city of Vancouver, 80 miles south along a breathtakingly scenic drive from Whistler along a Pacific coastline of islands and fjords.

The western province of British Columbia is amazingly empty; the size of Germany, France, Austria and Switzerland combined, its population stands at just under four million, with 1.8 residing in its biggest city, Vancouver.

Despite the fact that it poured rain for the large part of my visit, it takes more than a downpour to dampen the enthusiasm of the natives for showing off their unexpectedly cosmopolitan city. It shares the general Canadian passion for the outdoors life, and locals will routinely finish work around 4pm in the afternoon, to allow time to go skiing, biking or sailing. It is not a city for workaholics. If you wanna get ahead, go to Toronto.

Like Whistler, much of the emphasis is on outside activities; one worthwhile stop is the Capilano Suspension Bridge and surrounding park. This is a 450-feet long, 250-feet high footbridge which spans the Capilano River, leading to walking trails and elevated wooden walkways through the forest.

The Bridge is straight out of an Indiana Jones film, and theatrically quakes and shakes as you cross and gape at the river below and the soaring, cloud-shrouded mountains.

Also close by is Grouse Mountain. Towering over the city, skiers can leave work and be climbing into their gear 15 minutes later. The peak is reached by a cable-car; our party left a rain-soaked car-park and ascended into two feet of freshly-fallen snow.

The city itself is a tightly connected series of neighbourhoods, including the pretty historic district of Gastown, the chi-chi West End which opens onto Stanley Park, the city's version of Central Park, and the hip waterfront area of Yaletown.

The main hotel in Yaletown is the Opus.

Opened in 2002, it was recently nominated by Conde Nast's 2005 Readers' Choice Awards as one of the best hotels in Canada. It manages to pull off the tricky feat of being both chic and relaxed, and is bang slap in the centre of the action. And it has some interesting features . . .the 96 bedrooms are decorated in five distinct schemes designed after fictitious characters.

I took an instant shine to the old-gold coloured room, only to be informed that the room's 'personality' was 'Carol', a journalist who is "mature, cultured, kinda conservative but open-minded." Who, me? Mature?

And there are two stops which must be made, both close to the hotel; the Skoah beauty salon, which use all-natural products, gave me one of the best facials I've had in ages; then you can totter next door to George Bar. This hip nightspot - owned by an Irishman Patrick Mercer - has without doubt the best cocktaillist I've ever had the greedy joy of guzzling. I still dream about the pomegranate martini. . . Vancouver is a relaxed, liberal city - gay marriage is legal, and many disenchanted Americans have bought bolthole homes there, fearing that the US is going to hell in a handcart, and it's an easy six hour direct flight on Air Canada from America's East Coast. So for anyone who thought that Canada was boring, just have a go at the ziptrek. I dare you.

The facts Getting there Air Canada fly to Vancouver from Belfast via London Heathrow (www. canada. com); in June this year, Zoom Airlines begin direct flights from Belfast to Vancouver (www. zoomairlines. com) Where to stay Four Seasons Whistler, 4591, Blackcomb Way, Whistler (001 604 935 3400); Opus, 322 Davie Street, Vancouver (001 604 642 6787)




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