LOCATED in the exclusive spa town of Montecatini Terme in the heart of Tuscany, the Grand Hotel Nizza Et Suisse is an oldstyle hotel, with the concentration on traditional romanticism over opulence.

During the summer season, the place is packed with Italian spa-goers, but head there early spring, and you'll be sharing with Americans.

What's the best thing?

The location, and the dedication to the style of the era. If you're sick of allwhite rooms and trendy furnishings of modern hotels, then Grand Hotel Nizza Et Suisse is a remedy to that. A marble veranda runs the length of the front of the hotel, perfect for a nightcap from the hotel bar that looks out on to a carousel and one of the town's many art deco spas.

The rooms are spacious and traditionally decorated with shutters begging to be dramatically flung open, romantic lighting, and the obligatory jacuzzi.

Will it break the bank?

Single rooms start at 70 and go up to 100. Double rooms are from 65 to 100.

Want to know more?

Grand Hotel Nizza et Suisse, Viale Verdi 72, Montecatini Terme, Tuscany, Italy (www. tuscany . net/nizzasuisse).