Fujairah does not trip readily off the tongues of even the most seasoned travellers. It is part of the United Arab Emirates. But here is a question that would stump most contestants on Who Wants To Be A Millionaire? : can you name the seven states in the UAE? For the record they are Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al-Qaiwain, Ra's al-Khaimah and Fujairah.

The state has a population of about 118,000. It has two distinguishing features . . .it is the only Emirate to have a coastline on the Indian Ocean, instead of the Gulf, and it has no oil. After a very long flight and the transfer of a further two hours; it is 2am when I arrive. Finally we sweep into the driveway of Le Meridien Al Aqah resort . . .this had better be good.

As I am ushered through the door of the executive suite on the corner of the 18th floor, waves of happiness wash over me. It is amazing how quickly the misery of the journey fades to a bad dream when the accommodation has two bathrooms, a colossal living room, a bedroom, a walk-in closet, a kitchen, one balcony facing the front and, along the side, a terrace large enough to raise a family of goats. As I nod off on a vast, divinely upholstered bed, the sound of the waves gently breaking on the shore of the Indian Ocean is drifting up. It seems anything is possible here. All you have to do is dream it.

There is a revolution under way in the Gulf. It involves the transformation of the economy from petrodollars to tourist bucks. The emirs, sheikhs and sultans are keenly aware the oil bonanza has to end one day. Dubai is leading the charge with massive investment and infrastructure.

Abu Dhabi and Oman are both big players, which leaves tiny Fujairah with some issues.

From my eyrie on the 18th floor, through the deepening sky I can see the foundations of a hotel-to-be next door. Another hotel on the opposite flank is opening for business later this year.

Half a mile away a marina complex is emerging from the ocean . . . with a 1,400room hotel and hundreds of apartments.

Within five years the dusty strip of coastline at Al Aqah will be utterly transformed.

Tropical Places features Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach in Fujairah in its current programme.

Contact them on 01 4331020, www. tropical places. ie for prices and availability. Flights are into Dubai. Aer Lingus is offering direct flights, Dublin/Dubai , from the end of March.

ETIQUETTE IN THE EMIRATES: AN INSIDER'S GUIDE

Phew, what a scorcher

The UAE is ideal for winter sun because the days are sunny and warm, with temperatures in the 30s. Visit during the summer months and you can expect daytime temperatures to rocket into the 40s.

Sleight of hand If you're dispensing with knives and forks and eating with your hands, make sure you only use the right hand to pick up food. And when you've finished your meal, always leave a little on the plate, or you may find it's refilled by your generous host.

Make mine a double The norms of Islam govern social behaviour in the Gulf states. Although Muslims are teetotal, you will find alcohol on sale in international bars and restaurants.

What not to wear

The UAE may be building beach resorts like they're going out of fashion, but outside the hotel you must dress conservatively.

Keep upper arms and shoulders covered.

Women should cover up to below the knee and put on a headscarf to visit mosques.

Get off the road Even if you're here for a beach holiday, don't miss the chance to go wadi-bashing (off-roading) in the desert. It's great fun and you're guaranteed some brilliant views. But get someone experienced to do the driving and remember to fasten your seat belt.

In the know You won't find much on the bookshelves about Fujairah. However, 'Insight Guides' has just published a book on Oman and the UAE, which has a healthy section on the little Gulf Emirate with tips on what to see and do there.