Our compartment is a testimony to elegance and good taste . . . gleaming surfaces, beautiful marquetry work, the shiniest hinges known to mankind, a discreetly concealed wash basin unit and a big, comfy couch that later transforms itself into linenclad bunk beds (with Bruno's skill) while we are tucking into John Dory and roast lamb in the gorgeous surroundings of the train's Lalique-designed restaurant car.

There are no en suite facilities on board the Orient-Express, nor is there air conditioning . . . neither prove a problem for us however because, with the carriage window and corridor window open, there is plenty of air circulating, even on a sunny August day. And the lack of an en suite? Well, as it happens, you could practically hold a dance in the spacious toilet that's located just a couple of steps away from our compartment door. At the end of the day, of course, there are no 'mod cons' because this is the genuine article . . . all of the Orient-Express carriages have long histories . . . our own carriage, Sleeping Car No 3543, had been part of the famous Train Bleu until 1932, then operated on the Rome Express. After the second world war it rejoined the Train Bleu from 1950 until 1956 and finished its days as an Orient-Express carriage from 1961 until 1969 when the original OE was beginning to wind down. And now, like all of its sister carriages (including the three restaurant cars and the bar car) it has been meticulously and beautifully restored to its former glory and has been operating along the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express route since the legendary train took to the rails again in 1982.

The usual route from Venice to Paris cuts a picturesque swathe through the Italian Dolomites and the Austrian Alps. On the day that we travel however central Europe is still recovering from severe flooding so instead, for part of our journey, we take the train's original route (in the direction of the Simplon tunnel which gave the train part of its moniker) therefore avoiding Innsbruck and journeying instead close to Lake Como, into Milan (where a trainspotter nearly has a heart attack as we glide to a halt at the platform) and then across the border into Switzerland. We spend most of the afternoon in very inappropriate and unsophisticated style, hanging out of the corridor window, looking for landmarks and oohing and aahing as the stunning vista unfolds itself. Then, as evening falls, we watch the sun sink ever so slowly over Lake Geneva as the train heads into the encroaching darkness, right along the edge of this vast expanse of tranquil water.

Much earlier we had enjoyed a delicious lunch in the 'Chinoise' restaurant car, all deep russet upholstery and black lacquered panelling. Crisp white linen, crystal glassware, silver cutlery and fresh flowers completed the picture there and then, later in the afternoon there was a knock on our door and in came Bruno with silver tea service and a selection of divine, sure-you-couldn't-leavethose-behind pastries and cakes. Dining on board is one of the great pleasures of this historic journey and the cuisine, under the expert eye of an all-French team in the kitchen, is excellent and matched only by the impeccable service. This is made easier, of course, because of staffing levels and also because there are three restaurant cars so that there is never a sense of being crowded out as you dine. If you do the complete trip from Venice to London you get the opportunity to dine in all three cars . . . lunch in one, dinner in a second and brunch the following day in the third.

Now though, as Lake Geneva slips out of view and dusk falls fast, we rush to change for dinner . . . we've opted for the 9.30pm late sitting because we had a late lunch . . . and then, bedecked in our finery, we head for the 'Lalique' restaurant car, built in 1929 and named after its designer Rene Lalique whose signature opaque glass classical figures set the tone in this very stylish, art deco carriage.

The aforementioned John Dory and roast lamb go down a treat. Candles flicker, crystal glasses clink and the elderly, moustachioed 'diplomat', dining alone at the next table, raises his glass to us. And as we savour this Poirot moment, the train trundles on into the night, heading north now to Basel, and back on to its more familiar route. The floods are behind us. Paris beckons for breakfast.

SIX THINGS YOU DIDN'T KNOW

>> The train has featured in six films, most notably in Murder on the Orient-Express, with Albert Finney as detective Hercule Poirot. More recently Glenn Close, as Cruella de Ville, escaped to Paris on board the train in 102 Dalmations.

>> Sleeping Car 3309 was stuck in a snowdrift for 10 days in 1929, 60 miles from Istanbul. The passengers were saved by local Turkish villagers.

>> The building of the Simplon Tunnel in 1906, 12.5 miles in length, dramatically cut the train's travel time from Paris to Venice.

>> The train's inaugural journey took place on 4 October 1883 on a route from Paris to Giurgi in Romania via Strasbourg, Vienna, Budapest and Bucharest. From Giurgi passengers crossed the Danube by boat, boarded another train that took them to Varna on the Black Sea and continued by boat to Istanbul, then still called Constantinople.

>> The original train made its last journey on 19 May 1977.

>> Liza Minelli travelled on the restored train's maiden run from London to Venice on 25 May 1982.

When does it run?

On selected dates every month from March until November. The month of May offers most travel dates.

Where does it run?

>> The Venice-Paris-London route: this is the classic OE journey but there are, in fact, two parts to it. The Orient-Express itself travels as far as Calais from where you are taken by luxury coach through the Channel Tunnel by shuttle. In Folkestone you board the Orient-Express's sister train, the luxurious British Pullman, and enjoy a glass of champagne followed by afternoon tea as you travel on to London's Victoria Station and journey's end. You can opt however to do just the Venice/Paris leg, leaving the train in Paris at breakfast time. For Irish travellers this is worth considering: you've had a glorious day on the 'real' train, had the lunch, the afternoon tea, the dinner and the overnight. Since you have to fly home anyway, it's good to have the Paris versus London option. And it's cheaper, obviously.

>> There are other route variations which take in other cities such as Prague, Vienna, Budapest, Rome and Istanbul.

>> There are also 'inclusive' holidays combining train journey with luxury hotel accommodation.

What does it cost?

The Venice to London journey costs £1,390 sterling, per person, for a standard double compartment. All food is included but drinks are additional.

How do you book?

>> Directly with Orient Express on 0044 845 077 2222. Check out all the details, price break-downs, itineraries etc on www. orient-express. com >> With Harry Cahill Tours on 01 6705123, www. harry-cahill-travel. ie >> With The Travel Department on 01 4062222, www. thetraveldepartment. ie