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Beyond the matadors. . .



Running of the Bulls, Pamplona 6-14 July The running of the bulls is synonymous with this northern city, drawing crowds of mostly testosterone-fuelled young men aiming to prove themselves in one of the most dangerous escapades going. They gather at 8am each morning on the Santa Domingo starting line and lead a herd of 120-stone bulls through the streets, into a bullring. Celebrations run late into each night, culminating with the candle-lit Pobre de Mi closing ceremony, where crowds lament the festival's end. The next morning, die-hards traditionally run in front of the early morning bus to get their final fix.

How to get there: Aer Lingus (www. aerlingus. com) directly from Dublin to Bilbao. Where to stay: The 25-room Hotel Europa, Espoz y Mina 11, (00 34 948 22 18 00; www. hreuropa. com). Doubles with breakfast start at 274. Further information: San Fermin (00 34 948 206540; www. sanfermin. com) or Tourism Navarra (www. cfnavarra. es/ turismonavarra) Racing, Sanlucar de Barrameda, 1 & 3 and 16 & 18 August Betting is a serious business throughout August in the southern Andalucian town of Sanlucar de Barrameda. For four days, the sun-loungers and beach balls are cleared from the Bajo de Guia and Las Piletas beaches in preparation for a different kind of beach sport . . . horse racing. When the sun begins to set at around 6.30pm and the tide goes out the races begin in earnest, lasting until around 9.30pm. More than 200 horses and riders from all over Europe compete for several million euros of prize money.

Spectators can enjoy the local manzanilla and Sanlucar prawns from numerous stalls dotting the makeshift 'paddocks'.

How to get there: With Aer Lingus to Seville or with Ryanair (www. ryanair. com) from London Stansted to Jerez. Where to stay: Posada de Palacio, calle Caballeros 11, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Cadiz (00 34 956 364 840; www. posadadepalacio. net) has double rooms from 80. Further information: Sanlucar de Barrameda (00 34 956 366 110; www. aytosanlucar. org) La Tomatina, Bunol, 31 August Paint the town red (almost literally) at Bunol's La Tomatina . . . one of Spain's bestloved festivals. More than 30,000 revellers descend on the main square . . . the Plaza Pueblo de Bunol . . . to pelt each other with 120,000 tons of tomatoes. It all began in 1945, when a vegetable stand provided the perfect ammunition for an impromptu tomato fight among participants of a passing carnival. A rematch was arranged for the following year. Having made several attempts to ban the event, the authorities now accept it, but have imposed certain rules. Tomatoes can only be thrown at designated times and must be crushed first to avoid unnecessary injuries.

How to get there: Aer Lingus from Dublin to Valencia. Where to stay: Hotel Adhoc Monumental (00 34 96 391 9140; www. adhochoteles. com) has doubles from 95 with breakfast. Further information:

00 34 963 986 000; www. landofvalencia. com Jerez Autumn Festival, 4-24 September Head to Jerez de la Frontera, the home of sherry, for a festival celebrating its wine harvest. The queen of the vintage leads the opening parade, followed by children scrambling to catch sweets thrown by her courtiers. Events include horse jumping (Jerez is the horse-capital of Andalucia), flamenco dancing, bullfights, motorcycle races and the blessing of the vines. Spend your afternoons in a sherry haze at one of the many bodegas, most of which offer tours in English. The bodegas also produce brandy using the same ageing process.

How to get there: Ryanair flies from London Stansted to Jerez. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Seville. Where to stay: The Prestige Palmera Plaza, 1 Pizarro, (00 34 956 031500; www. palmeraplaza. com) has doubles from 149. The hotel is in the grounds of a 19thcentury bodega close to the centre of town.

Further information: Jerez Tourism (00 34 956 324747; www. turismojerez. com).

San Sebastian Film Festival, 15-24 September The red carpet is rolled out every September for the stars attending the San Sebastian International Film Festival. It may not be as well-known as Cannes or Venice, but San Sebastian still attracts the A-list . . . last year's 'Donostia' awards for lifetime achievement were collected in person by Annette Bening, Jeff Bridges and Woody Allen. Now in its 53rd year, it is considered to be one of the most avant garde of the European festivals. This year, San Sebastian's nine-day programme, screened at the spectacular Kursaal centre, includes seven categories of films . . .from the official section to retrospectives.

Filmmakers are awarded gold conchas (shells). Afterwards, explore the fabulous swathe of La Concha, the city's famous beach, and the numerous pintxos bars of the Parte Vieja, or old town.

How to get there: With Aer Lingus into Bilbao or with Ryanair into Biarritz, just across the Spanish/French border. Where to stay: The stars' hotel of choice is the classic grand dame, Maria Cristina, calle Oquendo 1 (00 34 943 43 76 00; www. starwood. com). Doubles start from 250 with breakfast. Further information: 00 34 943 481 212; www. sansebastianfestival.com




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