We had boarded a kettuvalam, a traditional-style Keralan rice barge with an all-enveloping mantle of woven bamboo.

Since the early 1990s these vessels have become a tourist attraction, adapted and fitted out as small floating hotels with en suite bathrooms and spacious dining and lounge areas. Ours, a deluxe model, had just the one large bedroom leading to a sundeck.

From on board, the beauty of the area unfolds as the houseboats serenely ply the myriad canals and lagoons that make up the Keralan backwaters.

Our rice barge sauntered slowly from the fishing town of Alleppey and stopped by a lagoon-side rice field where we finally sampled the lunch that so tantalised us:

vegetable curry and prawn masala with lacy rice pancakes. That evening Reji, the chef and chief of the three-man crew, gave us a cookery demonstration, producing fish curry with overtones of tamarind and coconut; avial, a traditional vegetable goulash with grated coconut, snake gourd, turmeric and cumin; and dhal with a subtle kick.

Kerala's dishes reflect the complex combination of cultures (Hindu, Muslim, Christian of numerous persuasions, Jewish) that for centuries have cheerfully co-existed in the region. For example, biriyani came from the Islamic Mughals of the north, while string hoppers (steamed ribbons of riceflour dough) were introduced by the Portuguese. Most of all, though, the cuisine of Kerala is a celebration of a wealth of natural produce: notably coconut, fish and spices.

The spices, particularly, intrigued. So when our boat trip ended we headed up to plantation country, the source of these pungent flavours. First stop, the rubber estate of Kanam. There, an old colonial plantation house, dating from the days of the Raj and aptly named Serenity, is now a sublimely peaceful boutique retreat with yoga master and on-site elephant who takes guests for rides. The ebullient young staff take enormous pride in their surroundings, showing you the spice and herb garden they have carefully planted with nutmeg, pepper, tulasi, ginger, chilli and more. We dined outdoors on some of the fruits of their labours . . . spice-infused prawns with piquant salads of green banana and papaya.

Onwards and upwards to the Western Ghats range of mountains. About five hours' drive north of Kanam, the slopes around the little town of Munnar are coated in tea. At an altitude of 5,000ft and more, the area also offers conditions in which many of Kerala's spices thrive. In the midst of the trim tea plantations is a 66-acre cardamom estate on which the owner has lovingly developed a wonderfully comfortable hotel with stunning views. The 15 rooms at the Windermere Estate are in chalet-style buildings gently suffused with the scent of cardamom, which is processed in nearby drying chambers.

The two-hour plantation tour was pleasantly gentle, but for serious exercise we opted to take a two-day trek in the area.

It is a spice-land rich in wildlife, and even before we reached our trek's starting point near the Manupatty Reservoir we passed a quartet of wild elephants feeding in meadows near the roadside. That night, as we camped at a remote edge of the Western Ghats bordering Tamil Nadu, our guide concocted a vegetarian spread of spicy cabbage, piquant beans, cauliflower with coconut, potato with turmeric and more.

Magicked in the dark from a tiny kerosene stove, it was an astonishing feast and an unexpectedly glorious mix of Keralan flavours.

Sunway offers a 14-day trip to the Kerala region taking in Cochin, Munnar and Kumarakom and featuring an overnight on a Keralan houseboat.

Flights are with Gulf Air from Dublin, via the United Arab Emirates and on to Cochin. Contact Sunway on 01-2886828 or log on to www. sunway. ie for more information about its Indian programme