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The restaurant Tranquil, private and very exclusive, the French Caribbean island of SaintBarthelemy exerts a powerful draw for 'the beautiful people'. The chef at the Carl Gustaf hotel, Emmanuel Motte, flies in his produce from France several times a week. Motte prides himself on "international, artistic and abstract gastronomic haute cuisine". Yellowfin tuna tartar with basil ( 37) is a signature dish. Dessert offerings include Guadeloupe mango tart with pink pepper and caramel ice cream, plus an array of French cheeses.
The view The Carl Gustaf occupies a cherished position high above Gustavia harbour. A diner's gaze may first survey the infinity plungepool before slipping downhill to the red tin roofs of the weatherboard cottages amd the spire of the Anglican church. Then the harbour, full of monstrous pleasure boats.
In the distance, the isles of Saba and St Martin, SaintBarthelemy's big sister island.
The bill Such high standards don't come cheap: appetisers start at 22.50, main courses at 32 and desserts at 16 . . . and beluga caviar is available at 300 for, ooh, around six teaspoons' worth. If that's too much to stretch to, you can always just slip into the bar at sunset for a cocktail . . . from 8.50 a throw.
Carl Gustaf, rue des Normands, Gustavia, Saint Barthelemy, French West Indies (00 590 590 29 7947, www. hotelcarlgustaf. com)
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YOU ARE HERE: 19 March 2007 / tribune.ie / 2006 / 02 / 19
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