FRANCE'S southernmost city, Pau, was once the place to holiday in that country. It was a celebrated 'watering place' for Victorian high society who came for the climate and good hunting.

They established parks, a tradition of afternoon tea and the first golf course in Europe. They left behind sumptuous villas, of which around 300 remain. Capital of the Bearn region, Pau is enjoying a tourism revival with the opening in the past year of two four-star hotels.

What's the best thing?

Courteous staff enhance the hotel's main attractions . . . its location (overlooking Parc Beaumont with a view of the Pyrenees), its decor, a top-class gastronomic restaurant, and a soothing spa and swimming pool.

Will it break the bank?

Double rooms start at 175 and a suite is 470. A family room costs 330.

Nearest airport?

Pau-Pyrenees, with flights from London Stansted. Or you can fly Ryanair direct from Dublin to Biarritz, an hour away.

Want to know more?

Parc Beaumont Hotel, 1 Avenue Edouard VII, BP 118, 64001 Pau Cedex, France 0033 559 118 400, www. hotelparcbeaumont. com