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JOHN WILSON PICKS GOOD GERMAN RIESLINGS



THERE are tentative signs that German wines are making a welcome reappearance on the shelves of our better wine shops.

Below are three scintillating Rieslings.

Under 10

Moselland Riesling 2003, 9.75 Not all sub- 10 German Riesling is sweet, and not all of it is quite as bad as some people make out. This is a very decent wine with ripe apple fruits that fill the palate very nicely, matched by just enough citrus acidity. Mosel wines tend to be the lightest and most delicate of German Rieslings, so this is one to serve at parties or to sip with friends.

Available from: Karwig Wines, Carrigaline, 021 4372864

Under 20

Carl Ehrhard Rudesheimer Riesling Trocken 2004, Rheingau, 12.95 Carl Ehrhard is one of the leading exponents of dry Riesling in the Rheingau, regarded by many as Germany's finest wine region.

Here, the wines tend to be a bit fuller and richer in style. With a mere 12% alcohol, a lovely steely citrus backbone, and clean green apple fruits, this is a perfect foil for seafood dishes. Try it with a bowl of moules mariniere.

Available from: Molloy's Liquor Stores; O'Brien's Off-licences; Karwig, Carrigaline; Redmond's, Ranelagh, selected SuperValu

Anything goes

Georg Breuer Terra Montosa 2003 Rheingau, 21.95 An old estate that has been on the hands of the Breuer family for over a century. In recent years, they too have been vinifying all of their wines dry . . . in style they have much in common with the Rieslings of Alsace or New Zealand. The Terra Montosa is a blend of four vineyards on the estate.

Very rich and intensely fruity wine with a heady cocktail of pear and pineapple, and just enough of the classic citrus acidity to keep it lively and fresh. The explosive fruitiness would match Asian fish and seafood dishes very nicely indeed.

Available from: The Wicklow Wine Co, Wicklow; Probus Wines, Oughterard; Wine Cluster, Galway; Donnybrook Fair, Dublin; Red Island Wine Co, Skerries




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