This country house hotel's three-course set menu offers an impressive selection. For the first course alone there's a list ranging from truffled cauliflower soup to a carpaccio of Welsh black beef with pear and mustard relish . . . the flavours are rich, wellbalanced and satisfying.

For main courses the fillet of sea bass with scallops, pasta and lobster sauce is extremely good while traditionalists can enjoy braised shoulder of local lamb, pan-fried guinea fowl or Balmoral venison.

The view

Standing in 200 acres of parkland and woods, Bodysgallen is pretty gorgeous whichever direction you're looking in.

But for enhanced pleasure book the window table in the restaurant: in daylight you can admire the dramatic panorama of the Snowdonia mountains and the medieval architecture of Conwy castle. After dark the castle is beautifully illuminated.

The bill

Three courses cost 52 per person inclusive of service (which is very friendly and quietly efficient). An encyclopaedic wine list offers excellent bottles from all over the world with plenty of decent choices around the 25/ 28 mark. Watch out for the extras . . . a cafetiere of coffee will add 5.50 to your bill, though it does come with delicious petits fours.