These days, savvy visitors head there to rent one of several loft-style apartments set in a converted grain store. The 20 or so apartments vary in design but all feature tall, arched windows, parquet floors and 18th-century-style furniture.

The building is within fork-lobbing distance of Harry's Dolci, a restaurant run by the folk behind Harry's Bar.

Bucintoro, Isola Della Giudecca, Venice (www. carefree-italy. com). Three nights' rental of a two-bedroom apartment starts at 675, or 475 for one-bedroom apartments Sant' Antonin, Castello An antidote to the more elaborate, period properties that tend to be associated with Venice, this minimalist studio apartment in the centre of the city is set on the third floor of a 15th-century Venetian house (you need to be fit, since there's no lift).

The inside is very high-tech, with just one large, open-plan living area and a separate shower. Beneath the exposed, wooden beams lie a gleaming parquet floor, ultramodern lighting, a glamorous white and stainless-steel kitchen and contemporary designer furniture.

Sant' Antonin, Castello, Venice (www. venicerentals. com). Four nights' rental starts at 860; sleeps two Casa Tre Archi, Cannaregio If you can't stretch to a palazzo, this budget option might be the solution.

Around 10 minutes' walk from the city's Santa Lucia railway station, it is a bit of a hike from San Marco. Traditional on the outside but bright and modern inside, this well-equipped apartment overlooks a canal and the Tre Archi bridge. While design snobs might not find a lot to coo over, they won't be disappointed with the living room's original terrazzo floor . . . a glittering carpet of tiny marble chips.

Casa Tre Archi, Cannaregio, Venice (www. visitvenice. co. uk). Rental from 900 a week; sleeps six Palazetto Accademia, Accademia Let by the exclusive London-based rental company, Lanza & Baucina, the Accademia 'suite' is set right on the Grand Canal, with spectacular views across to Salute church and the Peggy Guggenheim museum. This property boasts more period detail than the most decadent Merchant Ivory production, plus a kitchen designed with professional chefs in mind. The building dates from the 16th century, but the interiors are more 18thand 19th-century in style with intricately decorated ceilings, artwork, chandeliers and opulent antique furnishings.

Palazetto Accademia, Accademia, Venice (www. lanzabaucina. com). Rental starts at 2,500 per night; sleeps four Ca' Salvioni, Castello The ultimate Venetian rental, this palace property just behind San Marco boasts a jaw-dropping period interior, private garden, library and balconies that overlook some of the city's most spectacular canals (it also has a canalside entrance if you fancy pulling up in a gondola). Built in the 16th century, but revamped in the 18th, the main sittingroom features original oil paintings, stucco and Murano glass chandeliers. The master bedroom also has views over a canal. If enjoying such grandeur gives you a taste for a finer kind of life, there is the option of employing a cook.

Ca' Salvioni, Castello, Venice (www. bellinitravel. com). Rental starts at 6,100 per week; sleeps six