Then stop off at the tourist office to pick up a city map. Most streets in the old town have two names . . . official and historical.

09.30 . . . Make tracks for the museo Housed in the lovely old Hospital San Juan de Dios, The Museo de la Ciudad, at Calle Garcia Moreno 572 and Rocafuerte, has few original works of art or historical artefacts.

Instead, it tells the story of Quito's development over the centuries with an engaging display of scale models, pictures and exhibits. Entrance 1.50, 9.30am5.30pm, Tuesday-Sunday.

11.00 . . . Say a little prayer Or at least take a reverent stroll around one of Quito's newly renovated churches, the Iglesia San Blas (at Calle Guayaquil and Caldas). The old town's smallest church was one of the few places of worship open to slaves. The square it faces is a great place to fortify yourself with a pastry and coffee.

12.00 . . . Up, up and away The recently opened Teleferico cable car is not for the faint-hearted, whisking passengers from an altitude of 2,950m to over 4,000m in under 10 minutes. Views of the city and the snow-capped Cotapaxi volcano are stunning. Entrance 6.

13.00 . . . A fresh, new taste Even if you're not staying at Cafe Cultura, at Robles 513 and Reina Victoria (00 593 2222 4271; cafecultura. com) this boutique hotel is one of the highlights of the new town.

Having enjoyed the bistro cafe, leafy garden and library you can lunch on Ecuadorean and European dishes. Should you decide to spend the night, there are 26 individually decorated rooms, from 62 per double.

15.00 . . . Go shopping in the Amazon Shop along Avenida Amazonas and the streets in the Mariscal backpacker's hub.

Once you're done buying flip flops, Panama hats and Otavaleno blankets, head for the Museo del Banco Central (at Avenida de 6 Diciembre N16-224). Quito's premier museum houses pre-ceramics, gold jewellery and a gory collection of colonial art. Daily 9am-5pm, 2.75.

17.00 . . . Scale the cultural heights The Centro Cultural Itchimbia on top of the 'sacred hill of the radiant sun', is housed in the old Santa Clara century market hall.

The 19th-century structure was recently transported to this city park, to host temporary art exhibitions. The light up there does wonders for the exhibits, and views of the old town are panoramic. At Calle Iquique and Jose Maria Aguirre. Daily 10am-6 pm, 95 cent.

19.00 . . . Take in a show at sundown The peach-painted Pasaje Arzobispal (Archbishop's Palace) on Independence Square . . . known locally as Plaza Grande . . .

holds free concerts and folklore ballets in the courtyard on Fridays and Saturdays . . . a civilised sun-down experience.

19.00 . . . Dinner with a view Dine at El Escondite de Cantuna. High on a hill overlooking the old town, at Manuel Samaniego N8-95 and Antepara, this eatery serves local cuisine with refined contemporary flare, in a cosy, modernrustic setting. Not that you'll notice any of this as the city lights below mesmerise you.

23.00 . . . The night is young If you still have the energy, head back to La Mariscal district, where backpackers and travellers keep things lively. If you're still feeling the altitude, head to 'O2', at Mariscal Foch and Reina Victoria, where your cocktail comes with an oxygen chaser.