10.00 . . . Tall, tanned, young and lovely. . .

Leave your valuables in the hotel safe (crime-ridden Rio has one of the largest wealth gaps in the world) and step out on to the promenade. All life is here, from Gucci grannies walking their poodles to wannabe Ronaldos practising ball control.

Head to Ipanema for five-star shopping at bargain-basement prices.

13.00 . . . Up the hill for lunch Take the 'bonde' up to Santa Teresa for lunch. This 19th century wooden tram once took wealthy residents down to the city. Now locals and tourists take the bumpy ride through the cobbled streets of this boho enclave. For lunch, enjoy grilled fish and views of Guanabara Bay at Aprazivel (3a), Rua Aprazivel 62 (00 55 21 25 08 9174; aprazivel. com. br).

14.30 . . . Stairway to Heaven Visit Christ the Redeemer on a rail trip up Corcovado (00 55 21 2558 1329;

corcovado. com. br), the mountain where he stands. For a closer look, Helisight (00 55 21 2511 2141; helisight. com. br) will take you on a seven-minute whirl in a helicopter around the giant icon for 50.

Or take a guided tour of one of Rio's notorious favelas. For 30, Jeep Tour (00 55 21 2108 5800; jeeptour. com. br) will take you to Rocinha, the largest of these poor districts.

16.30 . . . On top of the world at sunset Head to the top of Sugarloaf Mountain.

Catch a cable car at the station at 520 Avenida Pasteur and scale the great hunk of rock. There's nowhere better to appreciate the natural beauty of this city.

20.00 . . . Eat east in the west Dinner time! Try the contemporary Asian Pacific Rim menu in the exotic boudoir setting of Bistro Zaza Tropical, Rua Joana Angelica 40 (00 55 21 2247 9101).

22.00 . . . In search of a party If you're here at Carnival time in February join the throng at Oscar Niemeyer's Sambodromo, from Avenida Presidente Vargas to Rua Fei Caneca, for the samba schools parade. Expect to pay around 70 for a ticket in advance (rio. rj. gov. br /riotur). If you can't make it at Carnival time, head for the trendy Lapa district and Rio Scenarium, Rua do Lavradio 20 (00 55 21 2233 3239; rioscenar ium. com.

br) to dance amid curios from the former antique warehouse.