Like the setting, the cuisine is rural but far from rustic.

Bras was one of the pioneers of the go-out-andpick-it movement, gathering wild herbs and local plants. However his use of them is sophisticated and subtle with, for example, a langoustine split open and garnished with an Aubracstyle combination of finely chopped broad beans and country sausage, laid out on a rectangle of black volcanic stone. French haute-cuisine has a reputation for being stuffy.

Here, although a meal is a special occasion, it is also fun, from the nostalgia of scrambled egg served in its shell with a fried-bread finger to the ice lollies and candy-floss with dessert.

The view Through the angled-glass facade of the diningroom, look out on to windswept mountain grass, granite boulders and clumps of wild flowers for an insight into the environment that has shaped Bras' cuisine.

There are menus at 52, 95 and 152. These prices may seem a lot, but this is a three-star Michelin-rated restaurant with cooking as memorable as it gets.

Hotel Restaurant Michel Bras, Route de l'Aubrac, 12210 Laguiole, France; 0033 5 65511820, www. relaischateaux.

com, www. michel-bras. fr