But the focus is its back terrace which offers sublime views and seating for about 100 people. The food is perfectly acceptable, especially in a city not renowned for its cuisine. Lithuanian meals are heavy on potatoes and make much of pork and pickles . . . since Tores opened four years ago it has been serving dishes that nod to such traditions while taking account of modern European tastes.

The view From the terrace you look down on the pretty Vilnia river and across to the Upper Castle and Gediminas' Tower. Further west the skyline is etched with spires and church crosses that are quintessential elements of Old Vilnius. But if you like added romance, come for sunset and stay to see Vilnius transformed into a city of twinkling lights.

The bill Starters include Tores dried beef at 2.75 and potato soup with smoked brisket at 1.45. Main courses range from tiger prawns with peppers and leeks ( 12.50) to roast beef fillet salad with bacon, lettuce, mushrooms and tinned cucumbers at 4.50.

Desserts are 3 and are more appetising than they sound. Fruit salad with ice cream and cheesecake comes with a hairdo of crystallised sugar.

Tores, 40 Uzupio, Vilnius, Lithuania; 00 370 5 2629309, www. tores. it