sunday tribune logo
 
go button spacer This Issue spacer spacer Archive spacer

In This Issue title image
spacer
News   spacer
spacer
spacer
Sport   spacer
spacer
spacer
Business   spacer
spacer
spacer
Property   spacer
spacer
spacer
Tribune Review   spacer
spacer
spacer
Tribune Magazine   spacer
spacer

 

spacer
Tribune Archive
spacer

CHEF SPECIAL - 1



No matter how many cookbooks we have on our shelves, research shows that most of us will never use more than 35 different dishes. But of the thousands out there, which recipes should no food lovers repertoire be without?

Here, 35 top Irish gourmets each share a favourite that should be cooked in every kitchen in Ireland. . .

Darina Allen Doyenne of the cookery world Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, Co Cork Soda bread "Soda bread is incredibly fast to make . . . you will always have flour and bread soda in the cupboard. Just turn on the oven and the bread is made in minutes . . . in the time it would take you to get the car keys and drive to the shop for bread.

Buttermilk is widely available in most village shops . . . you can also freeze it in 14fl oz quantities. You can also make brown soda bread using half white and half brown wholemeal flour."

Soda bread uses bicarbonate of soda instead of yeast to leaven the bread as well as an acidic ingredient . . .buttermilk or sour milk.

It also requires plain flour, not strong flour.

This soda or buttermilk bread takes only two-three minutes to make and 45 minutes to bake. You can also add olives, sun-dried tomatoes or caramelised onions to suit your menu, which makes this an infinitely useful bread and an essential recipe in your culinary repertoire.

Makes one loaf 450g plain white flour . . .preferably unbleached One tsp salt One tsp bicarbonate of soda 400ml buttermilk Preheat the oven to 2500C, gas mark 9. Sift all the dry ingredients into a large, wide bowl and make a well in the centre. Pour in the buttermilk. Using the fingers of one hand stiff and outstretched like a claw, stir from the centre to the edge of the bowl in concentric circles. The dough should be softish, but not too wet and sticky.

When it all comes together turn out onto a wellfloured surface.

Wash and dry your hands. Pat the dough into a tidy shape and flip over gently, then pat it into a round about four cm thick.

Gently transfer to a floured baking tray. Cut a deep cross into the loaf and prick the centre of each quarter to 'let the fairies out'.

Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 2000C, gas mark 6, and bake for a further 30 minutes or until cooked.

If you are in doubt, tap the bottom of the bread . . . it should sound hollow. Cool on a wire rack. Soda bread is best eaten on the day it is made.

For Spotted Dog (as pictured) add one tablespoon sugar, 110g sultanas and one freerange organic egg to the above recipe and reduce the amount of buttermilk to 350ml.

Richard Corrigan Proprietor Bentley's Bar and Grill and Lindsay House, London Irish stew "This stew is guaranteed to re-awaken the palate.

Sometimes it can get overloaded and the way to remedy this is really simple food such as lamb stew . . . it makes you feel alive again. I also love leaving the bones in as the flavour is much more intense."

Serves 4 Two middle necks of lamb, filleted, boned and bones reserved 450g King Edward potatoes, peeled 450g maris peer potatoes, peeled One onion, peeled and thickly sliced 700g carrots, peeled Good pinch of fresh thyme leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper Chopped chives and parsley Make a well-flavoured stock using the bones and the trimmings from the carrots and onion plus other vegetables and herbs you like. You need about 900ml of lamb stock.

Cut the lamb into large chunks and put in a heavybased pan. Pour in the stock and bring to the boil, skimming impurities from the surface.

Remove the lamb with a draining spoon and reserve.

Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pan.

Add the lamb and bring back to the boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the carrots into pieces smaller than the lamb, and the potatoes into pieces the same size as the lamb.

Add the carrots, onion and King Edwards to the pan and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the maris peers and thyme, and simmer for a further 15-20 minutes or until the lamb is very tender. Remove from the heat, cover and leave, without stirring, for 15 minutes. Check seasoning, then serve, sprinkled generously with chives and parsley.

Ross Lewis Head Chef Chapter One, Parnell Square, Dublin 1 Lime-marinated scallops, avocado puree and creme fraiche "The scallop fishing season has just begun so now is a really good time to buy them fresh locally" Serves about 4 Eight large scallops Juice of six limes and zest of one lime Three shallots, finely chopped 50g coriander leaf, roughly chopped One stalk of lemongrass, crushed One red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped Pinch sugar Half litre creme fraiche 24 very finely sliced and deep fried potato crisps Two avocados Cayenne pepper, sea salt 100mls virgin olive oil

Avocado puree:

Peel avocado, scrape inside the skin for green pigment (helps keep puree green ) and puree in a blender with lime juice, two tablespoons of creme fraiche, pinch of salt and cayenne pepper.

Marinade:

Squeeze the limes and add the chilli, shallots, coriander, crushed lemongrass, olive oil and sugar.

To prepare:

Slice the scallop across into three individual thin slices and leave in the marinade for 1 1/2 hours.

To serve:

Place six dots of creme fraiche on each plate and place a piece of scallop on top.

Season with sea salt and place a crisp on each.

Garnish with a quenelle of avocado, a little of the lime marinade and coriander.

Tony Schwarz Head Chef Mustard Seed Restaurant, Ballingarry, Co Limerick Pan-seared loin of wild venison with braised red cabbage, spiced poached pear, a pickled beetroot and caraway reduction "Autumn is my favourite time of the year, the beginning of the game season and the beautiful and succulent flavours of wild venison. This dish is typical of classical cookery combined with other great flavours, such as a citrus and vanilla mash, caraway and beetroot, braised red cabbage and of course the marriage made in heaven . . . pear and venison.

This is a dish that presents all the colours of autumn and by far the best received in the Mustard Seed restaurant."

Serves 4 Cabbage 1/2 head red cabbage, cored and shredded 1/2 litre red wine 150ml balsamic vinegar One large cooking apple grated 75g brown sugar 150ml cider One tbsp mixed spice 100g raisins Zest and juice one orange Place all ingredients in a large pot, cover with a circle of baking parchment on top of the cabbage, cook gently till tender, about 50 to 60 minutes.

Spiced poached pear Four baby pears 350ml red wine 350ml port 250g brown sugar One star anise Three juniper berries One clove One cinnamon stick Pour all ingredients into a pot, reduce by a third, then add pears. Cook gently till tender, about 10-15 minutes. Leave in syrup for at least 48 hours before use.

Pickled beets and caraway reduction Two medium beetroot, boiled 300ml balsamic vinegar 150g brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon caraway seeds 120ml veal/venison jus Lightly toast the caraway seeds in a dry pan, add vinegar and sugar, bring to boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Cut beets into 1/2inch x 1/2 inch cubes and pour over hot pickling liquid. Leave to rest for 48 hours. Strain beets and add to hot veal stock. Keep warm.

To assemble:

Season and pan-sear four 150g pieces venison (taken off the loin) for two minutes on each side.

Leave to rest in a warm place for five minutes.

Shape warm cabbage between two spoons and place on a warm square plate to one corner. Place hot poached pear on second corner, piped flavoured mash on third, split venison in two and place on fourth corner.

Finally, pour beet and caraway reduction into the centre of the plate and serve immediately.

David Norris Head Chef and Proprietor Restaurant David Norris Ivy House, Tralee, Co Kerry Parma ham and melon with spiced chutney juices and mint syrup "This is an easy dish for entertaining or a special Sunday lunch starter. And it scores high for maximum flavour and presentation."

Serves 4 One small galia melon One small charentais melon Eight slices parma ham One jar good chutney One bunch fresh mint 30g sultanas (soaked in whiskey) One tsp chilli flakes 225ml water 100g caster sugar Dissolve sugar with water and boil for one minute.

Liquidise the chutney and add enough syrup to thin it down to sauce consistency.

Over a medium heat, reduce remaining syrup until quite thick. Roughly chop mint, add to syrup then liquidise for two to three minutes until a good green colour is achieved.

Pass through a fine sieve and reserve in a small pot.

Gently heat the chutney juices with the sultanas and chilli flakes. Remove from heat and chill. Chill mint syrup.

Cut melon into eight even wedges and arrange with parma ham as shown below. Spoon over the chutney juices and spoon around the mint syrup.

Garnish with fresh mint.

Jean Christophe Novelli Chef Patron La Stampa Brasserie, Dawson Street, Dublin 2 Chocolate fondant "When I was a child, before I went to bed at night, I always used to eat a piece of pure dark chocolate to help calm me down. Then . . . as now . . . my mind would be racing, full of ideas and plans.

My mother found that dark chocolate made with 70% cocoa solids can have a relaxing effect. This recipe for chocolate fondant uses that same bitter dark chocolate, It's a wonderful way to enjoy the effects of dark chocolate.

It is very easy to make and takes 10 minutes to bake. I like it served with my trademark caramel springs and some white chocolate ice-cream."

Serves 4 130g 70% chocolate 100g icing sugar 68g plain flour Zest of two oranges 15g cocoa 4g baking powder 130g unsalted butter 138g egg whole 20g egg yoke Melt the butter and chocolate together over a pan of simmering water.

Sieve the icing sugar and mix with the egg. Then take this egg and icing sugar mix and combine with the chocolate and the butter.

Sieve the flour, cocoa and baking powder and mix with the chocolate.

Rest and emulsify for about one hour.

Line the moulds with butter and cocoa powder.

Pipe into the moulds.

Cook at 1800C, gas mark 4, for between eight and 10 minutes. Allow to rest for two minutes in the ring.

Neven Maguire Chef Proprietor MacNean House & Restaurant, Blacklion, Co Cavan Roast pork with apricot and pinenut stuffing "For me, this is what good eating with your family is all about. Really good quality pork, with crisp crackling and a succulent, moist stuffing.

This is one of the most triedout recipes in my books and I always get great feedback."

For good crackling, look for a joint of pork that has a thick, dry layer of skin . . .

organic is always best. If possible, allow the skin to dry out for a day uncovered and skin-side up on a large plate in the fridge.

Serves 6-8 75g butter One onion, finely chopped One garlic clove, crushed 50g pinenuts 175g white breadcrumbs (dayold) 50g ready-to-eat dried apricots, roughly chopped One tbsp roughly chopped fresh parsley One tsp fresh thyme leaves 1.75kg boneless pork loin, skin scored at 5mm intervals Two tbsp olive oil For the gravy One tbsp plain flour Three tbsp ruby red port or red wine One tbsp clear honey Four whole cloves 600ml beef stock Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Roast potatoes and a selection of vegetables, to serve Preheat oven to 2000C, gas mark 6. Melt the butter in a pan and gently fry the onion and garlic for three to four minutes until softened but not coloured, stirring occasionally. Heat a frying pan and toast the pinenuts, tossing to ensure they colour evenly. Stir the breadcrumbs into the onion mixture with the apricots, parsley and thyme. Stir in the toasted pinenuts and season. Remove from the heat to cool.

Place the pork joint skinside down on a board and trim down to give a good shape. Spoon the cooled stuffing along the centre, roll up the joint and tie with string at 2.5cm intervals to secure.

Transfer the stuffed pork joint to a large roasting tin and pat the skin dry with kitchen paper and then rub the olive oil into the skin with plenty of sea salt.

Cover with foil and roast for 20 minutes. Reduce the heat to 1800C, gas mark 4 and roast for another 15 minutes and then remove the foil and cook for another 1 1/4 hours or until the pork is tender and the crackling is crisp and golden.

When the pork is cooked, transfer to a warmed serving plate and leave to rest for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the gravy. Pour off most of the fat from the roasting tin and place on the hob over a gentle heat. Stir in the flour and cook for two minutes, stirring. Slowly pour in the port or wine and then add the honey and cloves, stirring to combine.

Gradually add the stock, stirring continuously. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes until reduced and thickened, stirring occasionally. Season to taste. Cut the string from the rested pork joint and cut through the fat just underneath the crackling.

Remove and cut into pieces and then carve the pork into thick slices.

To serve:

Arrange the pork slices on warmed serving plates and serve with roast potatoes, gravy and vegetables of your choice.

Handy hint: Do not be tempted to baste the rind during cooking and if the rind still hasn't crackled by the time the joint is cooked, remove and snip into strips with a scissors, then place under the grill until done.

Denis Cotter Head Chef and Owner Cafe Paradiso, Lancaster Quay, Cork Watercress, broad bean and wild garlic risotto with tomato-basil broth and Cratloe Hills' sheep's cheese "I think everyone should not only know how to make risotto but find it an easy, casual thing to do. My 14year-old son did one for his Junior Cert last week. I hope you don't have a raft of risottos already.

Risotto has a reputation for being a little intimidating and a bit of a cheffy dish. In fact, it is a very simple operation that needs only a little practice to become something that you rattle off while chatting in the kitchen.

This version is my favourite at the moment, but the recipe should be seen as a prototype, a basic instruction guide.

Learning to make risotto actually adds dozens of dishes to your repertoire. The vegetables and cheeses can be replaced by what you have to hand, remembering to add things that need cooking earlier or have them already cooked, and raw greens at the end. The tomato-basil broth adds an extra dimension, but if you don't want to go there, leave the risotto a little wetter."

Two tbsp olive oil One onion, finely chopped Three cloves of garlic, chopped 250g carnaroli rice 100mls dry white wine 1,200mls vegetable stock, simmering 150g shelled broad beans 200g watercress, chopped Handful of wild garlic, chopped 50g butter 100g Cratloe Hills' sheep's cheese, grated Salt and pepper Fry onion in olive oil for five minutes, then add the garlic and the rice, toasting it gently for 10 minutes.

Pour in the wine and simmer until it has been absorbed. Add a ladle or two of boiling stock, and simmer again until that is absorbed. Continue adding more stock in this way until the rice is perfectly cooked, and the stock is all absorbed. Check it often.

Add the broad beans with the last ladle of stock.

When that is absorbed, stir in the watercress, wild garlic, butter and half of the cheese. Season well with salt and pepper.

The broth:

One red onion, chopped Five cloves garlic, chopped One stick celery, chopped Five tomatoes, chopped Handful of basil leaves 200mls vegetable stock Fry the vegetables over high heat in a generous amount of olive oil, until coloured. Add stock and boil for five minutes. Strain off the liquid and reheat it gently.

Serve the risotto immediately with a little broth poured around and some extra cheese sprinkled over.

Paul Rankin TV Chef and Owner of Roscoff Brasserie, Cayenne and Rain City, Belfast Champ "This must be the ultimate potato dish when one thinks of Irish ways with potatoes.

It reminds me of childhood, school lunches and my dear mum."

Serves 4 One kg floury potatoes, (Kerrs Pinks, King Edwards, Desiree, etc) Six large spring onions 300 ml full cream milk Four tbsp butter Salt Peel and quarter the potatoes. Put them in a large pot with cold salted water and bring to the boil.

Simmer for 20-30 minutes until the potatoes are just cooked. Pour off the water, then cover the saucepan and let it sit in a warm place for about three minutes . . . this allows the potatoes to become soft and completely cooked.

While the potatoes are resting, wash and finely chop the spring onions.

Combine the milk and butter in a small saucepan and bring to the boil. Put the chopped onions into the boiling milk mixture, then remove from the heat and let them infuse for about one minute. This mellows the raw onion taste out.

Mash the potatoes and stir in the milk mixture until the whole mixture is smooth. Check for seasoning, and add salt if necessary.

Serve on its own in warm bowls, with a generous spoonful of butter on top.

Troy Maguire Head Chef L'Gueleton, Fade Street, Dublin 2 Smoked haddock and potato chowder with spring onion and cherry tomatoes "I think everyone should know how to make a good chowder" Potato Base (Slice all vegetables) Six medium potatoes Whites of four leeks One onion 1/2 cup olive oil 110g butter One litre chicken or fish stock Garnish One large cup diced onion One large cup diced celery One large cup diced carrot One large cup diced leek Two large cups diced, undyed smoked haddock (approx one large fillet) To finish:

One large cup creme fraiche One large cup cherry tomatoes, cut in half One large cup sliced spring onions Juice of three lemons One large cup chopped flat leaf parsley Pinch of Maldon sea salt and fresh black pepper For the potato base, sweat the sliced potatoes in the olive oil and butter slowly without colouring, then add the leek and sweat for a further 10 minutes. Add boiling stock and cook for a further 10 minutes, season lightly, then blend in food processor.

Sweat all diced vegetables for two minutes, leaving a firm bite. Add smoked haddock and sweat for one more minute, then pour leek and potato base over the fish and vegetable mix, stir well, then set aside to cool. (This can be done well in advance. ) To finish, heat chowder, add creme fraiche, thin if necessary with a little warm milk, add cherry tomatoes, spring onions, lemon juice and flat leaf parsley.

Check seasoning, sprinkle with chives and serve with brown bread.

Temple Garner Head Chef Town Bar and Grill, Kildare Street, Dublin 2 Aqua pazza (crazy water) Poached whole fish in crazy water with tomatoes, garlic, basil, onion, celery and potatoes "This dish is an extension of the manifesto of our restaurant: use only the best, freshest and most inspiring Italian and local produce available. This can be adapted to use any fresh white fish and is perfect for parties or dining outside on a sunny afternoon. It only takes about 30 minutes and the only other thing I would recommend is a chilled bottle of a good southern Italian white wine, perhaps a Greco di Tufo or a Sannio Falanghina."

Serves 4 12 tbsp extra virgin olive oil Two whole seabream or seabass (about 500g each) Four cloves of garlic, chopped 20 cherry tomatoes, quartered One small red chilli, finely chopped One onion, sliced One potato peeled and cut into small batons (like thick matchsticks) One celery stick, sliced thinly 400ml water and salt to taste Crusty bread, for serving Heat the olive oil in a heavy based frying pan and add the sliced onion. Gently fry until golden and soft.

Add the fish, followed by all the other ingredients.

Season.

Cook the fish on a gentle heat for seven minutes, turn the fish over and cook for a further seven minutes. When the fish eyes whiten, the fish will be cooked through.

Remove the fish and place on a warm serving dish.

Increase the heat under the pan, cook for two-three minutes, briskly.

Pour over the fish and serve with crusty bread.

Mark Anderson Head Chef Cherry Tree, Killaloe, Co Clare Paella "The simplicity of a cooked whole fresh crab, no lemon, no mayonnaise and no fuss.

No need for plates or cutlery, sitting on the step at the back of the kitchen, my fingers getting dirty and I'm happy.

As a nation, we are an island with an abundance of fabulous seafood. Yet unlike Mediterranean countries we don't seem to make the most of this. At home, I make dishes which are quick, full of flavour and wholesome.

Good food does not have to be complicated food!"

True paella is primarily a rice dish, spiked and flavoured with small pieces of available meat or fish and green vegetables.

Valencia paella usually consists of chicken or rabbit and snails with green beans.

Barcelona paella might use squid, chorizo sausage, prawns or clams and red pepper.

Paella is named after the flat-bottomed metal pan in which it is cooked Paella I enjoy a lot. It has great versatility. You don't have to restrict yourself to purchasing all the ingredients. You can adapt what ingredients you put in as your mood suits you.

You can make a small amount for yourself and your partner or a larger amount if you have guests.

But there's always the practicality of only ever using the one pan, because nobody wants to do too many dishes!

Serves 8 One x 1.4kg free-range chicken or rabbit, cut into eight pieces Maldon sea salt and freshly ground pepper Olive oil 200g lean pork, cut into small pieces, optional Dry the chicken pieces well, then season. Heat 100ml of the olive oil in a chosen pan (if using, add the pork a few minutes before the chicken), and fry the chicken pieces for two minutes until golden.

One red onion, finely chopped Two cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed 125g tomatoes, seeded and diced Half medium red pepper, diced Half medium green pepper, diced 100g green beans, cut into 2cm pieces 100g podded peas (frozen petit pois will work just as good) Add to the pan and saute gently for a minute or two 1.25 litres of chicken stock Two tsp paprika Large pinch of saffron 12 snails, mussels, raw shelled prawns, squid (any fish of preference cut small) Add to the pan and bring to the boil.

250g short grain rice (risotto rice will work if necessary) Stir into the pan, cover and bring to a simmer.

Cook very gently for 20 minutes until the rice is tender and the stock has evaporated. Stir now and again to help prevent sticking.

Remove from the heat, adjust seasoning and serve traditionally from the pan in the middle of the table.




Back To Top >>


spacer

 

         
spacer
contact icon Contact
spacer spacer
home icon Home
spacer spacer
search icon Search


advertisment




 

   
  Contact Us spacer Terms & Conditions spacer Copyright Notice spacer 2007 Archive spacer 2006 Archive