This year March was bitterly cold and very wet.

But now there is a stretch in the days; the tulips are blooming in the garden, and I can believe that summer cannot be far away. My wine-drinking habits change with the seasons. It is now time to put away those big rich red wines, great for hearty winter casseroles, but too big and alcoholic on these warm, crisp, sunny days. Spring means lighter wines both red and white.

By now we have started to see the first of the 2005 whites from Europe and can gauge just how good a vintage this was. Most that I have tasted are beautifully balanced fresh wines, full of vibrant fruit. I will put away the heavier, more alcoholic oaked white wines in favour of clean pure fruit-driven wines, given real zip with zesty citrus acidity.

Some parts of the new world excel in light dry whites; think of New Zealand whites, and not just Sauvignon; there is plenty of great Riesling and Pinot Gris. South Africa too makes some great Sauvignon, as does Chile . . .

search out those from the cooler Casablanca region. From Australia, look to the Riesling grape again, or the Hunter Valley, responsible for some exceptional light whites from either the Chardonnay or Semillon grape.

Although new world wines are becoming more and more popular, virtually every country in Europe makes some form of light refreshing white wine. France has the fresh crisp whites of the Loire valley; Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and the improving Muscadet, as well as a host of other regions . . . Alsace, Gascony, and the lesser whites of Burgundy spring to mind. But this summer, I will experiment a bit more. I will certainly continue drinking dry German Riesling and the cool whites of northern Italy; but I'll also try out more of the wines of Galicia in Spain, lesser-known Italians such as Fiano, Inzolia, Greco and Grechetto. I have also promised myself to learn more about the quite unique white wines of Greece.

Is there any better way of celebrating the arrival of summer than a glass of fizz? It lifts the spirits, and creates an occasion. I hope Prosecco is not becoming passe. This delicious fruity lightly sparkling Italian wine is one of the great stand-bys . . . cheap enough to break open for any mini-celebration, or even to sip whilst sitting out on the patio. Otherwise think of the less expensive fruit-driven sparklers from the new world, Spain and the Loire. Champagne is too expensive for casual summer drinking. Save it for special events, and then buy the best.

It is not just white wines that change either.

For red wines too, something lighter is called for. This is the time of year when I start to think of Beaujolais and its big sisters such as Fleurie, Morgon, Moulin a Vent, or Brouilly. Look out for the excellent 2003 and 2005 vintages in particular. Chill these lightly and serve with lunches . . . pates, charcuterie, leafy salads and all kinds of antipasti and tapa-style nibbles. Some Italian reds fit the bill too . . . basic Chianti, Valpolicella and Barberas all have fresh bright fruits that go perfectly with lighter foods.

Fans of new world wines should look to Merlots, or maybe Pinot Noir, which is always light in fruit, although it can pack a heady punch of alcohol.

If you are having a festive roast of lamb over Easter, Bordeaux or Rioja would be two very good traditional partners. In both cases, go for the best you can afford. A top-class Pauillac or Saint Julien is a heavenly match for lamb.

Make a real occasion by decanting the wine an hour or so beforehand, and put out good quality glasses. You will be amazed at the difference it makes.

In times past, the only time the Irish winedrinker thought about rose was when the sun was blasting from the heavens . . . and we all know how often that was. These days there is a steady market for rose throughout the year, but I still need a bit of sun. On a beautiful spring day a charming light rose seems a natural choice, with or without food.

As I have written before . . . don't go too cheap, even on the whites. Drinking wine on it own magnifies every flavour, so if you have bought something that tastes of nail-varnish and wet cardboard, it will be doubly obvious.

Be prepared to pay at least 8, and, if you can afford it, over 10. A glass or two of wine is one of the great pleasures in life . . . and life is too short to drink bad wine.