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The big cheese
Jillian Bolger



MAY Day is extra special to the inhabitants of Stilton, the small Cambridgeshire village where cheeserolling is part of their annual celebrations. Every year, the quirky event attracts over 3,000 people, eager to witness teams in fancy dress rolling their 'cheese' wheels along a 50yard course. Fromage fans will know that Stilton wouldn't hold together under such vigorous motion: competitors roll wooden cheeses, fashioned out of chunks of telegraph poles painted white.

(Kicking or throwing is not allowed, nor is straying into your opponents' path. ) The winning team bags a whole Stilton cheese, weighing about 16 pounds, and bottles of port, its traditional accompaniment.

While Stilton is one of Britain's traditional and most famous cheeses it's never actually been made in Stilton. Produced in limited areas of Derbyshire, Leicestershire and Nottinghamshire, the cows' milk classic is creamy with a mature flavour and rough, distinctive rind. Though traditionally served at Christmas, May day seems like a perfectly good excuse to indulge.

THREE GREAT IRISH BLUE CHEESES

Bellingham Blue Ireland's strongest blue cheese is made from cows' milk in Co Louth.

Stylistically, it's similar to Stilton with a strong, piquant taste and a rich, creamy texture.

Cashel Blue Ireland's original artisanal blue cheese is moist and creamy with less saltiness than many other blues.

Matured, it has a creamy, mellow flavour and pleasant tang. The best cheese is made from April to October when the cows are out to pasture.

Crozier Blue Made with sheep's milk this complex Tipperary cheese is naturally sweet with a mild saltiness. Its flavour and strength develop as it ages, making for a rich, creamy cheese.

All three are stocked by Superquinn, good cheesemongers and delicatessens.

goodtaste@tribune. ie




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