A specially-designated lift, with gilded interior and glittering lift-guy, transports you from the lobby of the Martinez to the restaurant entrance on the first floor.

The greeting is confidently formal French, yet warm and friendly. The energetic staff are the epitome of team work and each member is as quick with a joke as they are at summoning the sommelier from the cellar to recommend what to have with your veal, codfish or wild Breton turbot.

The view Sit back and take in the panoramic sweep of the Bay of Cannes, with its twinkling waters dotted with a sparkling variety of yachts and sailboats. Lean closer to the balcony edge for an equally entertaining eyeful of stars and wannabes along the palmlined Croisette below.

The basic 'Azur et Provence' menu of 70 per person is gob-smackingly good value for a two-star Michelin restaurant. The bateau can be pushed out however by going a la carte, where starters average 45.

La Palme D'Or, 73 La Croisette, 06406 Cannes, France; 0033 4 92 98 73 00, www. hotelmartinez. com