IT LOOKS very impressive from the outside, does the Rock of Cashel. All towering stone and tiny slit windows.

Fabulous. A real-life, really old, wellpreserved castle, steeped in history and wars and notable personalities from the past. Should be good. Great, even.

Inside, favourable first impressions are confirmed by a small but welcoming reception area and friendly staff. The next guided tour of the rock began in 20 minutes, so we took the opportunity to have a look around.

Really, 20 minutes was all we needed. The reality is, there's not all that much to see on this famed rock.

There are two small rooms inside the main building which have been totally renovated. They contain some extremely old axes, and a big old mantlepiece, and other artefacts.

Interesting, certainly, but nothing that really makes you stop and stare.

There was a winding staircase built into the wall in one room which was not accessible to the public. It was cramped and dark and very curious looking. Even just walking up and down may have helped to give a sense of the size of the people who used to live there, and their archaic living conditions. But no. Blocked off. You can walk into the depths of a pyramid in Egypt, but you can't walk up a stairs in Cashel.

The tour began, and our pretty young tour guide introduced herself with a smile. She was a mine of information, but perhaps that was the problem. It was more a history lesson than a guided tour, dense with dates and old Irish names that would not be familiar to most people, Irish or otherwise.

There were one or two 'funny' stories that provided some light relief for the boggled-looking tour group, but even they sounded a little pat and rehearsed.

In between the reams of dates, our guide made vague references to battles and wars, and quickly glossed over one of the most interesting stories . . . that of the massacre of Cashel in which hundreds of people were burned to death in the cathedral . . . in favour of telling us about "a very interesting archbishop" who was married twice and had nine children.

Riveting.

The Rock of Cashel has beautiful views and is in excellent condition. It's a mediocre destination, with potential to be much more.

Price of a coffee: No coffee shop on site Souvenirs: There is very little in the little souvenir shop that is specific to Cashel. A Cashel mug and a Rock of Cashel snow globe were the only visible items on sale. Everything else could be found in any souvenir shop in Dublin.

One to remember: The amazing views from the top of the rock; the peace, the quiet.

One to forget: The disconcerting splatter in the toilets.

Visitors' impressions: "The Rock is beautiful. The staff are very helpful.

Sadly, the toilets are a disgrace."

Worth the trip? Not unless you have a dedicated interest in old ruins, or you happen to be in Tipperary.

A little touch of glass

No 7 Waterford Crystal Visitors Centre, Co Waterford Annual visitors: 320,000 (2005) Admission: Adults 9.50; U12 free; Student 6.50; Family of five 23

YOU know things are going to be good when the receptionist starts winking at you. We had just told her that no, we were not students.

"Students, are you?" she said again, with more winking.

We finally copped on, hastily agreed, and 6 was promptly knocked off the price of our tickets, accompanied by a conspiratorial smile.

A great way to start a tour of the Waterford Crystal Visitors Centre.

The first stage was a little cynical. We were shown a short film that was supposed to be about the crystal, but was more like an extended advertisement targeting an audience who had paid for the pleasure.

This slight insult to our collective intelligence was quickly remedied with an hour-long trip into the depths of the factory, where we stood close enough to feel the heat off the massive furnaces, and watched the craftsmen deftly turn and tease the molten crystal into familiar shapes.

Having been surprised at the absence of 'Do Not Touch' signs in the main centre, we were further taken aback when our tour guide actually repeatedly encouraged us to touch the crystal and "get a feel for it" as we wandered around. Our vague astonishment was heightened when, at the end of the tour, one of the master craftsmen invited us to put our fingers on the edge of a rapidly spinning wheel that is used for carving designs into the crystal.

Only one brave soul decided to give it a try, the rest of us concluding that if it can cut crystal, it could do awful things to our delicate digits.

But easily the most delightful and unexpected aspect of this tour came at the very end. The rest of the crowd had wandered on back to the main centre, and we struck up a conversation with the master craftsman, John, who was clearly passionate about his work.

"Do you want to try it?" he said suddenly, holding up a crystal bowl that was just itching to be carved.

And so we did, under his guidance, pushing the crystal gently against the spinning wheel.

He believed he was speaking to regular tourists, and his friendliness was unparallelled.

He actually invited us to lunch. Between him and the winking receptionist, the trip to Waterford Crystal was a real treat, and . . .whatever the critics may say . . . a testament to the fact that the legendary Irish hospitality still exists.

Price of a coffee: 2 for a black coffee; 2.30 for a cappuccino Buy a souvenir? It's very tempting. There's an extensive range of beautiful crystal, with great deals for visitors and complimentary 20 vouchers when you spend over 150.

One to remember: Being given the chance to carve a design into the crystal by a friendly craftsman.

One to forget: The 40-minute sweltering journey through the city's horrendous traffic.

Visitors' impressions: "Brilliant. I wish I had a bottomless pit."

Worth the trip? Definitely. It's a hands-on tour that would interest both children and adults alike. Good roads and gorgeous scenery also help the journey there.

The garden of Ireland in the Garden of Ireland

No 10 Powerscourt House and gardens Number of visitors: 225,000 (2005) Admission: Adult 9; Student 7.50; U-16 5; U-5 free

NESTLED a quarter of a mile from the quaint Wicklow village of Enniskerry is the impressive Powerscourt House and gardens.

We entered the estate through the doors of a large Palladian house and had to interrupt the conversation of bored staff members before purchasing our admission tickets. We then quickly set out to view the gardens, before the advancing clouds arrived.

On stepping outside, we were awestruck by the landscape. It's like entering an Italian Renaissance painting, and the credit is largely due to Daniel Robertson, the leading designer of Italianate gardens during the 19th century. The best view at Powerscourt has to be looking down on Triton Lake from the rear of the house.

Mystical statues of lions, winged horses and Grecian urns are strategically scattered throughout this vista, and each sculpture emits an intimidating but powerful elegance.

By following the map we received at reception, we began our 40-minute circular walk around the gardens. There were pleasant surprises at every turn. Our first stop was a fairytale-like pepperpot tower. At the top we could see most of the estate and almost every variety of tree. A few steps further, we entered the Japanese Gardens where a young couple cuddled under a veranda, while an elderly couple sat peacefully on a bench overlooking tiny bridges and streams. It's easy to see why wedding parties have photos taken here.

Next we passed Triton Lake and its giant fountain which, because of the breeze, sprayed a light mist onto passersby. Young children happily played with tadpoles and very tame ducks paddled up to them through the lily pads looking for breadcrumbs.

Our final stop before entering the house was the immaculate walled gardens, which look like the spot where Alice in Wonderland played croquet with the Queen.

Inside the house, visitors can get a history lesson about the estate's previous owners and stroll around the Georgian ballroom. The house is not nearly as interesting as the gardens, so visitors should make sure the weather forecast is good to avoid any disappointment.

Visitors, hungry after the long walk, will be satisfied by the award-winning food, but should expect long queues in the afternoon, both in the restaurant and the shop. Extra cashiers would not go amiss.

Price of a coffee: 2.45. It's well worth eating in the cafe. Main dishes are expensive at about 11.50, but the food is delicious and the portions sizable.

Souvenirs: There is an Avoca shop that sells almost everything such as, woollen throws, clothing, toys, dishware and fresh cakes. There is also a garden centre and furniture shop.

One to remember: The incredible view of Triton Lake from the house.

One to forget: The unfriendly staff at reception.

Visitors' impressions: Despite the costly admission of 9, one Dubliner we met said he makes regular day trips here.

Worth the trip? Without a doubt, yes.

Eat your heart out, Ernest Hemingway

No 8 Fota Wildlife Park, Co Cork Annual visitors: 294,842 (2005) Admission: Adults 11.50; U-16s, Senior citizens and disabled persons 7; Family (two adults, two children 45; Car park 3

IN the beginning, in the distance, you can see the tall necks of giraffes grazing. If you were Ernest Hemingway, with whiskey on your breath and blood in your nostrils, this would probably deliver a mighty thrill as you load the gun. Because on a fine day, it is possible for a few minutes to believe you have been delivered to deepest Africa or an exotic outpost of Asia.

More than 70 species of wildlife are kept on Fota, and it would take the guts of a full afternoon to get around them all. The park, however, makes that as easy as possible. A recommended trail is signposted all the way through the gardens. Of more interest is the manner in which the animals are kept.

There are few cages with most of the animals kept behind split-railed timber fences which gives an open feel to the whole place.

If giraffes or rhinos are your thing, then you're catered for. If you have a soft spot for preening peacocks and their hens, this is the place for you. Of most interest might be the monkey island where a range of the critters swing hither and tither and look to be having some serious craic.

The feel of the wild is boosted by structures like the restaurant and various outposts in timber and log.

There is also a train decked out in zebra tones which ambles along the trail.

Farther in, the atmosphere is enhanced by drooping trees and the endless cackle of birds of varying hues. There is easy access for the disabled to any part of the park.

While the park is a fine visit for anybody, the presence of children would make it a must if in the Cork area. There is a play area which is supervised, and littered along the trail are minor playgrounds.

Price of a coffee: 2 Souvenirs: Furry giraffe 28. Mostly furry animals and books on wildlife.

Prices are above the odds, which is to be expected.

One to remember: The white-handed gibbon hanging around on the monkey island, and the sleek cheetahs.

One to forget: The European Bison.

Like hairy horses left out in the rain.

Visitors' impressions: "We got a lovely afternoon out of it. We had to drag our two children away. I would recommend it to anybody but I don't know what it would be like if it was raining."

Worth the trip: Definitely, and a must for anybody with small children. Travel by car on the Cork-Waterford Road, around 10 miles outside Cork; by train from Kent Station in Cork.

Nice castle, pity about the stone business No 6 Blarney Castle, Co Cork Annual visitors: 385,543 (2005) Admission: Adults 8; Senior citizens, students and children 6. Fee covers kissing the Blarney Stone

BLARNEY castle itself is nothing to write home about: an old, tottering ruin, there is little evident about its history and all it really has going for it is the stone business at the top.

They make the most of the stone business. Everybody who kisses it is photographed twice. Retrieval of the pic costs 10 a pop and you'll get the two for 15. The photos are handed over in a little hut just on from the toilets, which are called lavatories and are nothing to write home about either if you have a sensitive sense of smell.

Apart from that, the grounds are what your typical visitor might call "swell".

Included are a number of walks, such as one through woodlands that can take over an hour and a half. There are also a few features like the 'Wishing Steps', which take up where the Blarney Stone leaves off in offering a potent mix of myth and kitsch.

The whole place is a perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of modern Ireland, and the village itself is also worth a stroll around. There is little in the way of refreshments, apart from ices and minerals, but this is not a bad thing as it encourages a foray into the village.

Unfortunately, there is no disabled access to the castle itself. A series of steps leading to the base of the castle have no ramps so even the small souvenir shop in the castle can't be accessed.

Price of a coffee: "Sorry, sir.

You'll have to go to the village for a coffee."

Souvenirs: Irish shillelagh keyring 2.60. Begorrah, but the souvenir shop is topheavy with Irish kitsch and tales of yore, apart from the drinking tee-shirts you can bring home to mom and pop.

One to remember: Castle grounds of rolling lawns and groves of trees everywhere with a stream gurgling through it.

One to forget: That goddamn stone business.

Visitors' impressions: "It's a lovely castle but I didn't get to kiss the stone because I have a bad back. My husband did so I'm expecting great things from him now."

Worth the trip: Yes, if you fancy a nice long stroll through fine countryside or around the picturesque village of Blarney which sits in the shadow of the castle.

Blarney is around eight miles outside Cork city, just off the main Limerick Road. Beware the slip road for the village on the N20 as it comes at you out of nowhere.