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Dress rehearsal



EVEN die-hard clothes-lovers will agree that shlepping aimlessly round the shops can sometimes feel far too much like real work.

While we have all experienced the heady adrenaline rush you can get from finding that gem of a black dress or those perfect pair of lacquer-red party heels, we have all also felt the lows of the other side of shopping . . . that time when you've spent three hours fighting your way through the crowds to return home with bags full of items that are either too big, too small, too trendy or too dull. Or that time when you bee-lined for the cashier with an armful of clothes that you didn't try on because the queue for the changing rooms was too long. We have all been there and know that sinking feeling that even as you proffer your plastic over the counter that you will be bringing these clothes back to the shop the following weekend.

While applying military precision to your shopping, availing of the assistance of a good buddy or staying out of the shops completely and doing all your shopping online are all good alternatives, the reality is that you need a new look and you don't quite trust yourself (or your best friend) to shop as effectively as you might think you can. Which is where the assistance of an in-store personal shopper can come in. At no extra cost and available these days in most stores from River Island to Debenhams, an in-store personal style consultation might just be exactly what you have been waiting for.

Whether you are looking for a designer look interpreted for you or an extra special outfit for a wedding or a christening or even a whole working wardrobe for a new job, personal shopping can be just the thing for taking the hassle out of looking on-trend.

We road-tested the personal style consultation services of three Dublin shops . . . Top Shop, Gap and Harvey Nichols . . . asking them to interpret three new winter looks for us . . . Beatnik, Boyfriend and Urban Warrior. Here are the results:

THE GAP

How do I get an appointment?

Either telephone customer service or just walk in and ask. If a stylist is available she will do it straightaway, although you will benefit more by talking to her in advance as she will have time to prepare a few different looks. The consultation lasts 45 minutes to an hour. There is no fee and no purchase is necessary. Juices and nibbles from nearby Marks & Spencer are provided.

Is there a waiting list and how many do they take at a time?

There is no waiting list at the moment but the service is gaining in popularity as more people hear of it. The stylist can take three to four people at a time but urges the customer that they will benefit more if they do it on a one-on-one basis.

What kind of client and what kind of occasion?

"We get all sorts of people and from all age groups, " says in-store stylist Alison. "A lot of clients will say 'get me out of black!' or 'do that new black white and grey thing on me!' We also get people coming in and wanting to go for a whole new style that they have seen in magazines. Gap is particularly good for people who have something specific they need to shop for, like a holiday or a new job."

How does it work?

In my case, even though we had decided to hone in on the beatnik look, Alison had three looks for me to try, saying that one of the ideas with personal styling is to get people to try on clothes that they wouldn't usually consider. The three looks picked were: 1. The 'casual chic', which consisted of a colour palette of brown and black polo necks, cable cardigans, box jackets, felt shirts and structured hand bags; 2. The 'slouch' which was baggy jeans, layers and skinny tops and included a puffa jacket that had "walked out of the store since appearing in Grazia last week" (I looked like the Michelin man in it); 3. The androgynous look . . . aka the Beatnik look I was here to try out. These clothes were mainly black and grey and included denim boot-cut jeans, black ballet pumps, a little black tee-shirt over a white shirt, polo necks and white shirts and an Audrey Hep-like Italian merino wool cardigan.

The advice:

Alison was helpful commenting on how the beatnik thing is supposed to look . . . "It's all about keeping it monochrome and thinking classically cut timeless items such as turtlenecks, skinny pants, opaque stockings, ballet flats. . . . although you don't want to overdo the trend, so you have to give it a modern spin."

The result:

After many tryings on of many different items, we whittled the look down to a pair of cargo trousers, ballet pumps, white long-sleeved tee-shirt worn under a black tank tee-shirt, black pea coat and a big grey and black canvas bag and beret.

Total cost: 356 Contact: Gap, Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1; tel 01-8050520

HARVEY NICHOLS

How do I get an appointment?

An appointment must be made, with a phone consultation in advance of your shopping date. Personal stylist Aisling Cooney will ask you if you are shopping for anything specific occasionwise. She will try to find out what your style is and will also ask for your shoe and dress size. The consultation can last up to three hours if needed. Crisps and refreshments are provided and you can order a full lunch from the Harvey Nichols cafe menu, at your own cost. There is no fee and no purchase is necessary. The stylist is not working on commission either.

Is there a waiting list and how many do they take at a time?

It is a one-on-one consultation, and due to waiting lists appointment must be made at least two-three weeks in advance.

What kind of client and what kind of occasion?

"I find I have a lot of repeat business and a lot of it is busy mothers in their late 30s and early 40s who can only come in twice a year but want to shop in advance for all the social things they have coming up, " says Aisling. "I also get a lot of women who come to Dundrum for the day and are shopping for an occasion.

Men really benefit the best from this, though. They find it much more relaxing to sit and have their right sizes and ideas for outfits brought to them rather than having to walk around the shop floor looking nervous."

How does it work?

We had decided to focus my trip on 'the boyfriend look', which is all about the mannish styling borrowed from boyfriend touches (think Amelia Earhart, Annie Hall and Patti Smith). When I arrived, Aisling had lined up a rail of clothes and shoes including a gorgeous scoop-neck white jersey top by Sportmax, a Dsquared wool v-neck jumper, a Sportmax batwing lacy knit crochet cardigan and a DKNY crew-neck cream silk sailor top.

The advice:

"Paying attention to fit is key, " says Aisling "And the first step to pulling off a boyish look is getting the trousers right." While Aisling had chosen a number of wide-legged tailored trews in turnup tweeds and slouchy denim by labels such as Juicy Couture and Superfine, it was the super skinny punky pair from McQ which fitted perfectly. "You want to make the cuts and fits of the boyfriend look accentuate your female curves, rather than hide them, " she explained. "It's not about looking mannish at all, it's about looking super feline sexy." Key things to think about when creating the boyfriend look are: layered shirts, cardigans and trousers belted in; well-fitting tailored items feminised with softer fabrics in the form of a pretty blouse or fine cashmere knit. "The skinny thing has had its day now, " says Aisling. "It's time to move on. By this time next year it will be all about the boyfriend look, which is actually a lot more flattering on most figures."

The result:

The look we went for in the end was a sort of punky ska thing meets gangster 1940s. I wore super skinny trousers by the diffusion line, McQ by Alexander McQueen, a funky stripey schooljumper number by Sonia Rykiel and sexy high patent heels by Giuseppe Zanotti. We accessorised with some black and onyx jewellery by Lola Rose, as well as a very cool hat by Philip Treacy.

Total cost: 1,478 Contact: Aisling Cooney at Harvey Nichols; tel 01 2910488 .

TOPSHOP

How do I get an appointment?

Again, simply call the Grafton Street branch and ask to be put through to one of the three dedicated stylists. They will then fit you in when they can. The personal styling area is a little private oasis in itself, where you get to loll on the comfy big couch sucking lollipops and sweets and helping yourself to provided mineral refeshments. You will have a quick chat with one of the girls in advance of your appointment so that she knows your sizes and what you are looking for. There is no fee and no purchase obligation. The stylist is not working on commission.

Is there a waiting list and how many do they take at a time?

There is a waiting list at the moment of about three weeks, although if you are willing to come early in the week during the day they can squeeze you in, the busiest times being evenings and weekends. They can accommodate up to six women at a time and due to the privacy of the room anybody of any age or size would feel comfortable here.

In fact, Topshop is so ahead of the game on this whole personal shopping thing, they even have a dedicated team that will come out to your house. (For more details see www. topshop. com/togo) What kind of client and what kind of occasion?

"We get all types of girls in here, " says stylist Leah Burke. "From breast-feeding mummies who can't face the shop floor or a whole gaggle of hens gearing up for a big night, to the more serious, practical shoppers who come every season and stock up on whole new looks."

How does it work?

We spoke in advance and decided we would try to tackle the whole urban warrior look that's creeping into fashion now. A look that is part grunge, part biker, it is all about '90s sportswear, utility bags and boots, puffas and parkas, leather jackets and motorbike boots. Catwalk influences include Chloe, Marc Jacobs and Dior, with Kate Moss in the Belstaff campaign a key reference. With a rail of sludgy greys, greens and blues in front of me I wasn't feeling very inspired but as soon as I started trying on various items, and with Leah's help with sizing and how to wear certain things, I quickly started enjoying the non-girlieness of the trend, picking out chunky boots, skinny grey jeans, a hoodie and knit.

The advice:

"People seem to think of this look as one of the trickiest to pull off this winter but really it's simple. It's all about layering and functionality, " explained Leah. "The clothes I have picked out are all comfortable and warm and the kind of basics that you will be able to wear for years and are the perfect armour for an Irish winter. The key fabric here is floppy jersey with skinny jeans and leggings . . . Kate Moss style . . . adding a bit of sexiness. Otherwise, it's all about tough fabrics such as work shirts, pared-down jewellery and minimal accessories."

The result:

I know its not fashionable to say this . . . especially considering that every fashion journalist in the UK seems to thinks it's the most amazing shop ever . . . but until now I didn't really get Top Shop. Whether it's the teeny tiny teenage sizes or the Lily Allen art-college feel to the place, I have often shied away from doing any serious shopping there, so it was with some trepidation that I tried on the rail of clothes that were picked for me. Okay, so the sizes were not perfect and the quality of fabric in the jeans and jumper definitely not great, the overall style service was excellent and I will definitely be going back. The items I picked out in the end were: skinny grey jeans, a navy blue hoodie, grey knit, black chunky boots, green leather motorbike gloves and a bag.

Total cost: 466 Contact: Leah Burke; tel: 085 131 2087




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