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JOHN WILSON PICKS THREE BEAUJOLAIS



BEAUJOLAIS Nouveau will be arriving to these shores in the next few weeks. It is hard to get too excited by it these days . . . there are plenty of new-world wines from the 2006 vintage available, and most Nouveau is pretty awful anyway. Instead, why not buy one of these three beauties from 2005, one of the great vintages of Beaujolais.

Under 10 Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais 2005 9.99- 10.99 Dubeouf is the king of Beaujolais, one of the best-known and largest producers in the region. Do not ask too much of basic Beaujolais . . . it is a wine for gulping, preferably in large quantities with simple food. This version is nicely supple, with rounded light cherry fruits, and an easy finish. Serve it lightly chilled with a salad and perhaps some pate or cold meats. It would also make a very pleasant party wine.

Available from: Superquinn, SuperValu, Centra, selected Spar, Londis, and Next Door, and many independent off-licences Under 20 Fleurie Domaine de la Portelle 2005, 14.49 Fleurie is the best-known of the 10 Beaujolais 'Crus' or villages in this country, and was for many years the bestselling wine in most restaurants. In style it is said to be the perfect balance between the lighter, floral style of a cru such as Chiroubles, and the meatier, denser wines of Moulin-a-Vent. The Domaine de la Portelle is stylish and smooth with plenty of elegant, silky red fruits. This would make a great lunchtime wine, especially with chicken or pork.

Anything Goes Brouilly Vieilles Vignes Domaine Lapalu 2005 19.95 This is stunning Beaujolais, convincing proof for me that Beaujolais can make great wine. I had the pleasure of meeting M. Lapalu earlier this year . . . he is a man with a passion for great wine, and a refreshing willingness to experiment.

This is one of most enjoyable wines I have tasted all year . . . I would urge you to go out and try it. There are beautiful supple, sweet ripe fruits, a wonderful freshness and vibrancy, and excellent length. A wine that charms and seduces rather than overwhelms the senses . . . the essence of good Beaujolais.

Available from: Hand Made Wines, Lismore; Red Island Wines, Skerries; Michael's Wines, Mount Merrion; Wicklow Wine Co, Wicklow; Liston's, Camden Street; Probus Wines Oughterard For your diary Donnybrook Fair will hold its Wine and Food Fair on 10 November. There will be over 100 wines for tasting, along with cheeses and canapes. Tickets are 20, with proceeds going to the Children's Sunshine Home. Call 01 668 3556 for further details.




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