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JOHN WILSON PICKS THREE PINOTS FROM CHILE



REGULAR readers will know of my Pinot Noir addiction.

Outside of its home in Burgundy, there are not many areas suited to this fussy grape. New Zealand is one, but more recently attention has switched to Chile. Here, the emerging cooler regions offer exciting wines, often at very reasonable prices too.

Under 10 Secano Pinot Noir 2005, normally 10.99, currently on offer at 8.79 There are very few drinkable Pinots under 10, but Chile offers two of my favourites; the Cono Sur Pinot Noir and this wine. It is made by Vina Leyda (see below) for Marks & Spencer, and offers amazing value for money. You get plenty of delicious ripe cherries and dark fruits, along with a slight meatiness and a lovely clean finish. This is a great all-purpose wine; you could drink it on its own, with tuna or with lighter white meats. This would go nicely with your Christmas turkey.

Available from Marks & Spencer Under 20 Vina Leyda Las Brisas Pinot Noir 2005, 11.75 This was one the very best wineries on a recent trip to Chile. There is a huge commitment to quality, and the wines are remarkably good. This was one of the first companies to grow vines in Leyda, a cooler region that is proving perfect for a number of white wines, as well as Pinot Noir.

Winemaker Rafael Urrejola said: "We are looking for a bright, vibrant, elegant wine, and not power" . . . in this they have certainly succeeded. The 2005 Las Brisas is one of the best yet, a captivating wine with fresh clean cool summer fruits and an excellent finish. I would happily drink this on its own, but it would improve even further with chicken, turkey or lighter game birds.

Available from Redmond's, Ranelagh and McCabe's, Blackrock Anything goes Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2005, 21.99 This is the company that can take most credit for introducing Pinot Noir to Chile.

In recent years they have expanded their range. The 20 Barrels Pinot Noir is from Casablanca, another cool climate area close to Leyda. It is best known for its elegant Sauvignon Blanc, but it turns out some pretty neat Pinot Noir too. This has been aged in new French oak for a year and it shows in the smoky aromas, and toasty palate; but both are more than matched by some beautiful ripe damson and dark cherry fruits. Big, svelte and rounded, this would go nicely with roasted game birds.

Available from Redmond's Ranelagh; Sweeney's, Glasnevin; Uncorked, Rathfarnham On the grapevine Former Sunday Tribune scribe Tom Doorley has just opened Hand Made Wines & Food in Lismore, Co Waterford. The shop will stock a range of artisan wines and foods. Knowing Tom's excellent taste in these matters, I suggest it is worth a visit. Failing that, you could always call 058 53688. There will be a website, and nationwide delivery from January onwards.




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