Indeed, many of us are just beginning to discover the wealth of cheeses that are out there. Like wine, some of them take a little getting used to. But unlike wine, the finer cheeses don't have to cost a small fortune . . . indeed, the rustic charm of many cheeses can also be found in the price.

Sheridans Cheesemongers on South Anne Street and Pembroke Lane in Dublin have been championing fine cheeses for almost a decade . . . and it is partly thanks to their efforts that many people can now see beyond the choice between white and red cheddar. So what better time to sample the wares of this unique shop than Christmas time, when there is magic in the air and cheese on your mind.

"I find that Irish people are very open to trying new things, " said Fiona Corbett, partner in Sheridans Cheesemongers. "They might come in for a traditional cheddar, but once they taste what we have on offer, they often leave with something quite different."

Of course, Christmas is a time for tradition, and the majority of people will opt for something blue . . . maybe Irish, maybe Stilton . . . but, given the time of year, these same people might branch out and buy something else. After all, when else will you have the opportunity to offer a cheeseboard?

Listed below are a few special cheeses which have been recommended by Fiona and the team at Sheridans.

Durrus Jeffa Gil has been making Durrus at her hillside farmhouse in West Cork since 1979 . . . and since then it has gone on to become one of the most highly regarded of all the Irish farmhouse cheeses.

It is the only Irish wash rind cheese which is still made using raw cow's milk and traditional rennet. Durrus is a semi-soft with a mottled pink-orange rind and a semi-firm creamy paste that has a tendency to bulge slightly when cut. The aroma is one of hay and wet soil, punctuated with a small dose of the pungence so characteristic of washed rind cheeses.

Durrus has collected a number of prizes and accolades over the years, including Best Irish Cheese at the British Cheese Awards in 2003. It was also named Supreme Champion at the IFEX (for the second year in a row), and Jeffa was named best cheesemaker.

Montgomery's Cheddar Generally regarded as the best of the unpasteurised, animal rennet cheddars still being made in England, Montgomery's Cheddar is made on the family farm near Cadbury in Somerset with milk from the family's pedigree herd.

Montgomery can be aged anywhere up to two years, although most people prefer it at somewhere between 12 and 18 months.

Mont d'Or AOC Mont d'Or is a seasonal soft cheese from Franche-Comte, made using raw cow's milk. The AOC stipulates that production must take place between 15 August and 15 March . . . and the cheese may be sold from 10 September to 10 May. The milk used must come from Montbeliard and Pie Rouge breeds feeding exclusively on grass and hay at altitudes above 700m. No fermented feed is permitted. The cheese must be encircled by a strip of spruce or pine and packaged in a wooden box. Mont d'Or has a washed rind, covered in a dusting of white mould and a soft, near liquid cream-coloured paste. But what does it taste like?

The aroma is one of hay, mushrooms, earth and balsam, as both the box and the spruce impart wonderful woody flavour (the black colour which may occur around the wood is perfectly normal and is no cause for alarm). The flavour itself is one of cream, wood and dry undergrowth with a slightly saline finish.

A simple recipe for a superb cheese Baked Mont D'Or 1x Mini Mont d'Or (boxed) 50 mls dry white wine 1x clove garlic (optional) TTo Serve:

Jacket Potatoes Crusty bread Take a small boxed Mont D'Or, remove the plastic and the lid. Wrap the box in aluminium foil and prick the rind of the cheese with a fork. You may also wish to insert one or two pieces of garlic. Pour over a little white wine (about 50mls), place the boxed cheese in a medium oven (2000C) for about 25 minutes. Take the cheese out of the oven and spoon over jacket potatoes.

Baked Mont d'Or is equally delicious served alongside some crusty bread, cornichons and cured hams.

Stilton Unlike Cheddar, Stilton's name protected status has prevented the proliferation of imitators which has blighted the image of cheddar as a quality, artisanal cheese. Only six dairies are permitted to manufacture Stilton today, and the Colston Bassett Dairy stands out amongst these producers for the consistently high quality of its Stilton.

It takes 72 litres of milk to make a standard 6.5kg wheel of Stilton. The young Stilton is kept in the maturing room for around six weeks. Towards the end of this period the cheese is pierced with long stainless steel needles at regular intervals around its circumference. This allows air to come in contact with the penicillum roqueforti and lets the cheese develop its latent blue potential.