Anyone with his longevity must be doing something right, from soft rock 'n' roll through soft disco to soft pop. Anyone with the sense to put the words of the "Our Father" with the tune of "Auld Lang Syne" to create a number one hit has got to have his head screwed on. So anyone who suggests that Christmas is about 'Mistletoe and Wine' might just be speaking the truth . . . at least about the wine part.

The trouble is that wine is all too often seen as something of a chore . . . an essential part of a meal, but not necessarily something which can be easily enjoyed. But people who do not enjoy their wine are simply not buying the right bottles . . .

while some wines are truly unpleasant (and this is usually reflected in their price), many are wonderful, complex, challenging creations that can be enjoyed either with a meal or on their own.

It's just a question of knowing what you like, and, occasionally, being willing to pay that little bit extra when it comes to buying what you really want.

Stuart Smith of The Corkscrew wine shop on Chatham Street (off Grafton Street in Dublin's city centre) has picked out a nice selection of wines, three under 15 and three over 15, which he feels could have special resonance for a Christmas dinner table.

Under 15 White 2004 Yalumba 'Y' Series Viognier, 13.95 Stuart describes this Australian wine as having "a deep hedonistic nose of apricots and honeysuckle, with an intense palate of white stone fruits and apricots".

The acidity is balanced and alcohol, whilst on the high side, is matched by the other parts of the whole and therefore does not seem intrusive.

Why Christmas? "One of the most chi-chi of all varietals, it is rarely done well, but proves to be a great aperitif as well as the perfect foil for shellfish, " says Stuart.

"You can amaze your friends in being able to pronounce it [Vee-on-Nier]."

Reds 2003 Domaine Seguela 'Les Candelieres', Cotes de Roussillon, 13.95 This has a mocha and coffee scented nose with hints of raisin and kirsch. "A blockbuster palate which is brimful of rich raisin laden fruit, " says Stuart. "Tannins are supple and soft and it has a round satisfying finish . . . a consummate winter warmer."

According to Roussillon has longed played second fiddle to the Languedoc and was chiefly famous for adding a bit of weight to Bordeaux blends . . . but the story is beginning to change with quality rather than quantity the watchword. So why Christmas? "Its ability to take on the conflicting and to my mind horrible, flavours that represent the Turkey repast will make it an instant crowd pleaser, " suggests Stuart.

2003 Chateau Laroche Joubert, Cotes de Bourg . . . Bordeaux, 14.95 A spice laden plum and cherry fruit, with hints of toast.

"This is a medium-full body dominated by plum and cassis, soft tannins and very plump with a nice refreshing finish that gets you hankering for more, " says Stuart.

"The Cote de Bourg is on the same side of the Gironde as St Emilion and Pomerol, it's therefore Merlot dominated, but since it dos not possess the illustrious monikers of the right bank flagships provides wines with an excellent prix/qualite ration."

Stuart tells us that Bordeaux is all part and parcel of a quintessentially Dickensian Christmas. "It does seem that people buy the expensive kit and then there are sighs of disappointment all round, when it turns out not to be Ambrosia, " he says.

"This, from the hot '03 vintage, will bridge the gap for people who like new world red, but aspire to Bordeaux on high days and holidays."

Over 15 White 2003 Chablis 1er Cru 'Fourchaume', Domaine Chatelaine D'Oliveira, 27.95 Limpid, with a lemon gold colour, a nose of hazelnuts and melon, the palate shows dry mineral fruits backed up by a supporting oak cast.

"Despite the vintage, it has shed its gawky youth and is showing a nice balance, " says Stuart. "The 2003 vintage is something to be scared of for village wines, but the upper echelons seem to have produced a pretty good bunch from reputable producers."

The reason it is perfect for Christmas is that Chablis is one of the supreme food wines . . . "it will go with any seafood, is great as an aperitif and, if you are so minded, could cope admirably with the Turkey . . . cut out the Cranberry though."

Reds 2003 O'Leary Walker Shiraz, Clare Valley/Mclaren Vale, 19.95 "Brace yourself for an onrush of spice, menthol and jammy red fruit, " says Stuart. "A palate that is laden with swathes of red fruit and a very appealing cinnamon tinged clove spice edge. Serious wine from anywhere it has a mighty 25-second finish."

Memorably described by Hugh Johnson . . . "Two winemakers get midlife crisis and set up on their ownf and how! !". Nick Walker and David O'Leary (not of Arsenal and Ireland fame) go from strength to strength, theirs being Shiraz and Riesling in particular.

"Whether it be ham or turkey, this is the boyo to deal with the clash of flavour that is Christmas, " claims Stuart. "It will confound wine snobs, for whom it can only be Frenchf and will show those whose happy hunting ground is 8.99 that there is more to life than over-confected, over-extracted alcoholic Ribena from Australia."

2002 GeveryChambertin, Domaine Tortochot, Burgundy, 34.95 A nose of crushed strawberry and raspberry fruit with hints of chocolate and toast.

"The palate is hedonism personified, with a crisp tannic structure surrounding a supremely velvety core, " says Stuart. "Fruit definitions are not really pertinent, totally balanced, and a superb finish."

This wine is from one of Burgundy's most masculine communes, and the wines of Gevrey tend to the foursquare and tannic in youth. '02 was a good vintage for red and is just coming round to drinking now.

Stuart suggests that Christmas is perhaps the one time to pull out the good stuff and throw caution to the winds. "Great Burgundy is able to transmit that feeling of wellbeing with just a soupcon of smugness that you have had the good taste to purchase such a mighty wine, " he says. "I defy people not to enjoy this."