The ruins of their baths can be seen today, just metres from the promenade bordering the sea. The Moors knew Luz too. The beacons lit to warn fishermen of their approach gave the place its name:

'Beach of Light'. Today Luz lives quietly, its modest village houses dominated by a beautiful 17th-century church and fort once visited by William Shakespeare.

Tourism in Luz is still in a minor key compared to the rest of the Algarve. The picturesque fishermen's town remains unspoiled;

attractive new restaurants sit quietly among the old neighbourhood eatingplaces, the new walkway along the sea is cobbled with white and black stones in the traditional fashion. The gently shelving beach, backed by multi-coloured sandstone cliffs in greens, pinks, oranges, now flies a Blue Flag and has made Luz a centre for water sports.

Golfers can enjoy five 18hole golf courses, all within easy reach. The star is the Palmares course in Lagos.

Where to stay?

An Oceanico development, the Estrela da Luz resort complex, has been designed to make all this accessible without infringing on the village. Set on a gentle incline 300 metres from the beach, it's a luxurious, landscaped complex with a variety of amenities including private terraces and balconies, tennis courts, playground, pools and a spa and leisure centre. It features spacious, deluxe apartments, furnished to the last teacup.

A new health and beauty centre in the complex, with an indoor swimming pool and a well-equipped gym, is a great option for nongolfers. An increasing number of women come to the resort simply to pamper themselves with a 'Spa Break' in the sun.

What to do?

The proximity of Lagos is another plus. A 10-minute taxi ride away, this bustling old town is criss-crossed with tiny streets and shady squares, with offbeat shops and the occasional tiled building in the Art Deco style. Have a meal in the panoramic restaurant perched over the market where the freshest of fish are on the menu. There's plenty of history too: Prince Henry the Navigator sailed from here on his voyages of discovery to the coast of Africa (Lagos, in Nigeria, was named after Prince Henry's home). The slaves he brought back were auctioned where an art gallery now stands.

Enjoy a boat trip to the grottos in the fossil cliffs and take in views of the coastline. There are dolphin-watching excursions, too.

What will it cost?

Estrela da Luz golf breaks, which provide self-catering accommodation in highspec apartments plus car rental, vary from three nights at 245 per person (two sharing) to 1,795 per person (six sharing for 10 days) depending on the season and the car selected.

The packages include three to 10 rounds. A Spa Break includes accommodation (but no car) plus a choice of beauty treatments . . . from manicure to Coconut and Milk Ritual. Package prices start at 154 per person for a three-day 'Pamper Package' to 341 for a fivenight deluxe spa break.

Combination packages . . .

golf and spa . . . can be devised to suit individual preferences. More information from Oceanico Resorts, at 00351 282 767 546 or reservations@ oceanicoresorts. com Nearest airport?

Aer Lingus and Ryanair serve Faro, an hour's drive from Luz.