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JOHN WILSON PICKS THREE CABNERETS FROM CHILE
JOHN WILSON



CHILE made its name with Cabernet Sauvignon, and for me this is the grape that it still does best. Look for crunchy blackcurrants, mint, black and red peppers, hopefully with some ripe, well-integrated tannins. It is great food wine, particularly with red and white meats, hard cheeses and bean casseroles.

Under 10
Rio Alta Classic Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.99

The Musgraves / SuperValu / Centra chain has recently started importing the wines of this impressive Chilean producer. Based up in the Aconcaqua Valley to the north of Santiago, the unusual climate gives the wines a unique combination of rich ripe fruits, balanced by a cool refreshing note. I was very taken by the excellent Rio Alta Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Gran Reserva, but the Classic offers great value for money, with its subtle herby nose, and light sweet red fruits and smooth finish.

Light enough to drink on its own, this could make a great party wine in the coming festive season.

Available from: all SuperValu stores, and selected Centras

Under 20
de Martino Legado Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2004, 14.99

In recent years, de Martino has moved to the forefront of the Chilean wine revolution, researching the various soils and climates, and matching them to grape varieties. This wine has those delicious classic minty blackcurrant flavours of the Maipo Valley in spadefuls, allied with a soft ripeness on the centre palate, and plenty of body, finishing with a lovely grip. A big but very classy wine that punches way above its weight. This is a real winter warmer . . . try it with hard cheeses, roast red meats, or a hearty casserole.

Available from: Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2; Claudio's, Georges Street Arcade; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Thomas' Deli, Foxrock; Bin No 9, Clonskeagh; Eurospar, Killiney; Caufield's SuperValu, Bandon

Anything goes
Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, 40

The big daddy of them all. From the Puete Alto vineyard in Maipo, this is an uncompromising wine chock-full of dark fruits, and dry peppery tannins. This is a wine for grown-ups, a wine that goes brilliantly with red meats, and beef in particular. It has complexity, elegance and huge concentration. Drinkable now, it will develop further. What more could you ask for? There have been a number of very expensive 'icon' wines coming from Chile in recent years. For my money, Don Melchor is still the very best.

Available from: The Molloys Group, Superquinn, Donnybrook Fair, Higgin's, Clonskeagh




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