Then there are the rest of us, who leave it to all the very last minute.

Some people fret over matching wine and food. I take a more relaxed view - avoid vinegar and sweet sauces, both the enemy of good wine, and make sure you don't serve white wines too cold (it kills the flavour) or red wines too warm - they just taste alcoholic and jammy. Serve your wine in good, large tulip-shaped glasses - it will taste so much better.

T A few food tips: salmon, prawns and richer seafood go nicely with textured whites - Chardonnay, Semillon, Pinot Gris, and riper Riesling - if in doubt a bottle of fizz will keep everyone happy; avoid anything too tannic with turkey - it just makes the poor bird seem even drier.

Go for southern Rhônes, Aussie Shiraz, or a Pinot Noir from anywhere. If you prefer white, go for something powerful, like a top-drawer Burgundy, or new world Chardonnay.

Don't forget dessert wines - port is great, but why not be a little different a serve an Oloroso sherry, or a sweet Madeira? Can I make a special plea for the Sauternes below? It is light, fruity and beautifully balanced - if you think you don't like dessert wines, this could change your mind.

Novas Chardonnay 2005 Casablanca, Chile Palo Alto Reserva, Chile 2004 Castelnau de Sudiuraut, Sauternes 2002 Warre's Late Bottled Vintage Port 1995

Stockists Euro11.99 at O'Brien's Wine Off-Licences Euro7.99 at Dunnes Stores Euro19.99 at O'Briens Wine Off-Licences Euro27.50 at McCabe's, Foxrock and Blackrock;

Fallon & Byrne; Bradley's, Cork; Wine Centre, Kilkenny; The Vineyard, Galway

Description A nicely textured, mediumbodied palate with lively peaches and apples backed up by some refreshing acidity, hints of vanilla and a dry finish This is an incredible price for a very classy wine. I would be very happy to pay the normal price of Euro15.99, but at Euro7.99, it is worth buying by the case. Pure mint and cassis, overlaid with some smoky oak, and plenty of elegant tannins on the finish Over dinner, my legal friend claimed flavours of crème brûlée; my wife chimed in with vanilla; my son argued for pineapples, and I got barley-sugar. A complex wine quite obviously, but beautifully light and fresh - the perfect antidote to heavy Christmas fare Rich warming damsons and plums with Christmas spices and a sweet but never cloying, harmonious finish. Stand the bottle up the day before, decant and drink within a week

Drink with it With a salad of prawns and avocado dressed in mayonnaise; a retro prawn cocktail would be ideal Possibly a bit too tannic for turkey, but would come into its own with spiced beef, goose, game, or ham With biscotti or a fresh fruit salad To be sipped with plum pudding on the day, or with mince pies and Christmas cake at any time

Score 12/20 13/20 16.5/20 14.5/20