WHY GO NOW?

Copenhagen makes up for the descent into wintry darkness with its Yule festivities.

The taverns have taken delivery of the spicy Christmas beer (Yulebryg), Royal Copenhagen's Christmas Tables are on view and the fun park Tivoli (www. tivoligardens. com) is also open until the end of December.

TOUCH DOWN The parquet floors, airy halls and chic dutyfree shops of Copenhagen's Kastrup airport are the first sign that you are in a designconscious nation.

SAS has daily flights from Dublin to Copenhagen. With fares from Euro67 one way, log onto www. flysas. ie for further details.

From Kastrup, trains whisk you into the central station (1) in just 12 minutes for a one-way fare of Dkr27 (Euro3.65).

GET YOUR BEARINGS Across from the station is the main tourist office at Vesterbrogade 4A (2) (00 45 7022 2442; www. visitcopenhagen. com). From now until April it opens Monday to Friday 9am4pm, until 2pm Saturday, closed Sunday.

Here you can buy a Copenhagen Card, giving free entry to 60 attractions and museums, discounts to theatre and free bus, train, harbour bus and Metro travel in Greater Copenhagen. It costs Dkr199 (Euro27) for 24 hours; Dkr429 (Euro57) for 72 hours.

CHECK IN Bertrams Hotel Guldsmeden (3) at Vesterbrogade 107 (00 45 3325 0405; www. hotelguldsmeden. dk) is a restful boutique hotel in funky Vesterbro. It has doubles from Dkr1,495 (Euro200) including an organic breakfast. Another new opening is the harbourside Front (4) at Skt Annae Plads 21 (00 45 3337 0656; www. front. dk).

With its shagpile-clad rooms, lively bar and '70s-style decor, this is one for the stylish urbanite. Doubles start from Dkr1,590 (Euro213).

Budget rooms are few and far between in the Danish capital, but an excellent option, especially for solo travellers, is CabInn City (5) at Mitchellsgade 14 (00 45 3346 1616;

www. cabinn. com) just behind Tivoli; its basic rooms start from Dkr525 (Euro70) a night;

breakfast is Dkr70 (Euro9) extra.

TAKE A HIKE The heart of medieval Copenhagen can easily be explored on foot. From the Town Hall Square (6), head east down Frederiksberggade, which is confusingly also the start of Stroget, the pedestrianised shopping street. Turn right at the square of Nytorv (7) into Radhusstraede, then left into Nybrogade, which feeds into Gammel Strand, the city's medieval harbour where fish was sold and some of the city's best seafood restaurants can still be found.

Across the bridge at the end of this is the ancient island of Slotsholmen. Landmarks here include the 17th-century former stock exchange Borsen (8), whose bronze spire is comprised of twisted dragons' tails representing the Nordic nations; the Danish parliament (9); and Christiansborg Palace (10). Leaving Slotsholmen by the Marmorbroen (Marble Bridge) (11), head right along Frederiksholms Kanal, until you get to Magstraede. This medieval street feeds into Snaregade, where you turn left into Nabolos, following it through its permutations as Hyskenstraede and Klosterstraede. Turn right into Skindergade, at the end of which you'll see the Round Tower (12); built by Christian IV in 1642, it is Europe's oldest working observatory.

LUNCH ON THE RUN Smorrebrod (open sandwich) is the Danes' favourite snack. An ideal introduction is at Slotskaelderen hos Gitte Kik (13), a familyrun institution at Fortunstraede 4 (00 45 3311 1537). Options include curried herrings, liver pâté and pale pickled salmon with dill.

One piece starts from Dkr37 (Euro5), though the typical serving is three; bookings are essential. Another option is Mojo (14) at Gothersgade 26 (00 45 3332 0105;

www. mojo. se), a cosy street-corner café that has Caesar salads for Dkr85 (Euro11.50), soup (Dkr75/Euro10) and bagels (Dkr60/Euro8).

ANAPERATIF In prime shoppers' territory at Store Regnegade 3 is Café Dan Turèll (20) (00 45 3314 1047;

www. danturell. dk).

Take a window table, then order a kir royal - the café also does a roaring trade in burgers (from Dkr119/Euro15). Otherwise, head to the Yulebryg tasting stalls on Nyhavn. Denmark has the most microbreweries per capita in Europe, so there should be a beer to suit every palate.

DINING WITH THE LOCALS A few minutes' walk from there, next to the cathedral (21), is the pedestrianised Grabrodretorv (Greyfriars Square) (22), where there are several basement restaurants offering excellent cuisine and a hyggly (cosy) atmosphere. One of the best for a classic Danish stodge-fest is Bof & Ost (Beef and Cheese) at No 13 (00 45 3311 9911;

www. boef-ost. dk). A rustic, smoky affair popular with locals, it has whitewashed walls, pleasant waitresses in flowery frocks, and wine drunk and paid for by the centilitre. Wild duck with cranberry, apple, walnuts and artery-clogging stilton sauce costs Dkr189 (Euro25); cheeses start from Dkr45 (Euro6).

Café Zeleste (23), at Store Strandstraede 6 (00 45 3316 0606;

www. zeleste. dk), is a romantic eatery that specialises in half lobster (Dkr255/Euro34).

Other mains include fallow deer and organic beef. Three courses cost Dk325 (Euro43), and it does a brunch (Dkr85/Euro11) that was voted the best in the city, for which bookings are essential on Sunday.

OUT TO BRUNCH Surprisingly, Denmark consumes more coffee per capita than anywhere else, and has won best barista in the world four times in the past 10 years. Martin Hildebrandt in Café Europa (24), at Amagertorv 1 (00 45 3314 2889) across from Royal Copenhagen, set the standard in 2001 and now roasts his own blend. But your caffeine fix won't come cheap: its signature coffee, the cortado (like a milkier macchiato) costs Dkr30 (Euro4), with sweets from Dkr39 (Euro5).

A WALK IN THE PARK Kastellet (the Citadel) (25)was built in 1662 and houses Europe's oldest army barracks still in use. However, its grassy, star-shaped ramparts are open to civilians from 6am10pm. From the top you might be able to make out a cluster of bemused tourists on the seaside walkway; their object is the city's tiny, twee icon, the Little Mermaid (26). If you fancy a closer look, it's about a five-minute walk from the Gefion Fountain at the base of the Kastellet.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON Until the end of January, the National Museum (27) at Ny Vestergade 10 (00 45 3313 4411; www. natmus. dk) has family activities based on Danish Christmas traditions. There is also an exhibition on the founder of Copenhagen, Bishop Absalon (1128-1201), and medieval Denmark. It opens 10am-5pm Tuesday to Sunday; admission free.

ICING ON THE CAKE Get your ice skates on at the rink in Kongens Nytorv. A whirl around the treelined square (28) outside the National Theatre costs Dkr40 (Euro5.20) for an hour - about the limit of one's endurance in the arctic chill.