However, somehow those lean crisp green fruits did nothing for either of us. After a few sips, it went back into the fridge, and I was dispatched to find something more suitable. We drank a bottle of Portuguese red, which hit the spot perfectly.

It was a bottle of Quinta de Pancas Touriga Nacional 2000.

As I write, there is a bitterly cold wind blasting in off the sea, and I know exactly what I am going to drink tonight too . . . another big heart-warming red.

Few regions do hearty reds as well, or as keenly-priced as the southern Rhone. I could easily have listed a dozen wines from this region, all under 20 that would have fitted the bill perfectly. The wine listed here is from one of my favourite producers.

Will 2007 be the year that Argentina finally breaks through in Ireland? Quality is improving every year. Prices are very competitive too; in fact there are few countries that can match Argentina when they get it right.

Australians probably don't need winter warmers, especially not at this time of year. However, we should be grateful for their soft rich reds, usually with buckets of fruit. Look for Shiraz, Mourvedre or Grenache to provide that glass of sunshine.

Lastly Spain can also turn out some big wines; normally I would head straight to Ribera del Duero, or maybe further south to Jumilla and Yecla. But Catalonia makes some beautifully balanced wines, full of fruit and power.

The suggestion here is now part of the Torres empire, but made using an interesting combination of Syrah, Tempranillo and Garnacha.

L >> wine@tribune. ie

Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Reserva, Mendoza, Argentina 2003
Simon Hackett Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia 2003
Domaine Alary Cotes du Rhone 'La Gerbaude', 2005
Terrasola Jean Leon, Catalonia, Spain, 2003

Stockists 16.99 at Higgin's, Clonskeagh; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Lynch's, Glanmire; Paul Kennedy, Aughrim; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Londis, Malahide 14.99- 16.99 at The Hole in the Wall, Blackhorse Avenue; Gibney's, Malahide; The Corkscrew, Chatham Street; Jus de Vine, Portmarnock 12.75 at Donnybrook Fair; Cana Wines, Mullingar; McCabes, Blackrock; Uncorked, Rathfarnham; World Wide Wines, Waterford 14.95 at Daly's Off-licence, Boyle; Fahy's, Ballina; Fallon & Byrne, Dublin 2

Description A huge mouthful of gloriously ripe loganberry fruits, with subtle spice and plenty of firm but smooth tannins kicking in on the finish The classy ripe blackcurrant fruits envelop the alcohol completely, making for a beautifully smooth wine, with notes of mint, and a lovely freshness overall A big, yet very beautiful, almost elegant wine; a floral nose, and full ripe dark fruits with a lovely piquant edge. It is elegant enough to drink by itself, but will certainly improve with food The succulent rich dark fruits are an excellent foil for the full tannins that come through on the finish.

Medium to full-bodied, with a full blast of flavour

Drink with It has to be your finest grilled striploin steak, charred on the outside, rare within A pork or lamb casserole; try it with a warming Irish stew Roast or casserolled game birds, mallard with roasted root vegetables would be my choice A slowly roasted shoulder of lamb, stuffed with plenty of garlic and anchovies

Score 13/20 13/20 15/20 13/20