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Brush up your make-up routine
BEAUTY SCHOOL ISABEL HAYES



MAKE-UP brushes. We all have them, right? Some of us have a not half-bad collection that's been picked up over the years involving, for instance, an Estée Lauder blusher brush here and a Lancome eye-shadow brush. Others have a more motley crew of balding bronzer brushes, spiky blusher brushes you could sweep your floor with and a lip brush that's been around since the Leaving Cert.

You know who you are.

My point is this: you will never (I repeat, never) have a truly well made-up face until you start using the right tools.

Ancient make-up sponges, scratchy bronzer brushes and cheap eye-shadow applicators that come in the tin just aren't going to give you a good, long-lasting look, no matter how hard you try. And all the expensive make-up in the world won't compensate for it.

So if you think it's time to start your brush collection afresh, bear in mind that you only need five key brushes to perfect your make-up routine. These are: powder brush, blusher brush, foundation brush, eye-shadow brush and blender brush. Of course, you could go a whole lot further and include concealer, lip, brow and lash, angle, fine line, smudger and socket brushes, but some of these are optional and the rest are simply unnecessary.

A good powder brush is possibly the most important implement of all as the quality of your finished look is dependent on it. Good quality soft hair is essential for giving an even spread of powder and ensuring it stays in place.

Clinique has a lovely powder brush (Euro29) with a large dome for easy application of both pressed and loose powder.

"Don't prod the brush at a 90 degree angle to your face, " advises Clinique make-up artist, Caroline Barnes. "Instead, use it at an angle for a soft finish and brush down the face to ensure your facial hair lies flat against your skin."

A decent blusher brush should have the same qualities as a powder brush with extra soft hair to ensure the blusher sweeps on naturally.

Nars' recently launched Ita brush (Euro42) has a flat, angular design that makes it ideal for controlled application and contouring.

Simply smile and apply colour to the apples of your cheeks.

If a make-up brush could be said to be controversial, then the foundation brush is it. There is a strong case that using a brush is the equivalent of painting on a heavy layer of foundation that is obvious and tacky.

But in reality, a foundation brush will blend your make-up better than anything else, leaving your skin looking naturally flawless. A new airbrush is coming soon to Pout and this rounded brush sweeps colour onto the face to give an airbrushed effect. It should be on counters this spring.

A good eye-shadow brush is essential for both precise and longlasting eye colour and for best results, it should be used with a blender brush.

The blender brush smooths away any heavy-handed colour and smudges eyeshadow to give a really professional look. Stila does an excellent eyeshadow and blender brush at Euro22 and Euro24 respectively.

"Use the side of the eye-shadow brush to apply the colour and tap the powder into the eyelid to avoid spilling the shadow across your skin, " says Barnes. "Then sweep the brush across the eye in a stroking motion to soften and shape."

Building up a good brush set can be costly, but many counters do mini-brush sets that have the same quality hair and the advantage of being portable.

Bobbi Brown, possibly the queen of beautiful brushes, is introducing her mini make-up organiser next month. For Euro60 you can get a blush, shadow, lip and liner brush, which all fit into the cutest leather case with purple lining. Sold.




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