Things were much quieter in Burgundy, although growers here too were thrilled. Reports indicated both white and red wines were as good as any over the last decade.

Prices increased, but not on the scale seen in Bordeaux, and many wines seem very reasonable by comparison.

Berry Brothers, bespoke wine merchants tucked away in Harry Street, have excellent contacts but none more than in the difficult Burgundy region. Difficult because quantities available are always small, and there are a myriad of growers in each commune. Berrys are therefore able to offer a huge range, including some from the most desirable estates. I travelled over to London where they set up a tasting of some 77 wines.

This week, I have selected four white wines, all of which deserve a place in any half-serious cellar. There was a concern the white wines would be precocious but lacking in freshness and acidity. There is some truth in this, but most I tried showed excellent balance of ripe fruit and fresh crisp acidity. Most were showing very well, but the top wines will continue to improve for up to a decade.

Berrys currently have a Burgundy En Primeur offer.

This involves paying for the wines now, prior to shipment later this year.

Prices are per case of 12 bottles, and excluding Vat of 21% and duty, currently Euro24.57. Some of the wines below will be imported by other merchants. However, given the tiny quantity available, this might be your best chance of buying into one of the great vintages of burgundy.

Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine, Héritiers du Comte Lafon Bret Brothers Domaine de la Soufrandière Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Quarts Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy Saint Aubin Le Princée Domaine Partick Javillier, Meursault CuvéeTête de Murger

Stockists Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2, Euro120 Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2, Euro265 Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2, Euro180 Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2, Euro521

Description Domaine des Comtes Lafon - further north is Burgundy - is recognised as one of the greatest producers of white burgundy. The newer enterprise in Mâcon makes some less expensive but stunning wines. A wonderful, lightly honeyed nose; bursting with plump pure ripe orange and succulent melon fruits, backed up by good acidity.

This is drinking beautifully now, but will keep a year or two.

These two young brothers burst on to the scene recently with some gorgeous, vibrant wines from various parts of the Mâconnais. This is from their own estate. A brilliant wine, with fantastic ripe fruit, held in check by a mouth-watering minerality, light, wellintegrated toasty oak, and excellent length. Drink from 2008-2010.

An estate that has been on song for over a decade now, but the wines are still very reasonably priced.

Forward rich toasted hazelnuts in a rounded, voluptuous wine. There is a lovely smooth texture and excellent length. Drink from 2008-2012.

Not exactly cheap, but this is brilliant wine - perfectly defined, hugely concentrated fruits, apples and grilled nuts, but with a dancing fresh acidity; very closed at the moment, a wine of real power and class.

Drink with it Scallops with ginger and spring onion.

Poached salmon with home-made mayonnaise.

Your best roast chicken, stuffed with herbs.

Grilled or baked turbot, served with ample quantities of melted butter.

Score 15/20 16 .5/20 15 .5/20 17.5/20