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Burgundy part deux



LASTweek, I looked at 2005 white Burgundy; this week the reds.

These are classic red Burgundies, with an excellent concentration of flavour, amazing balance, and the structure to age very gracefully. The hallmark of the vintage is a lovely ripeness of fruit.

Most are deceptively easy to drink now, but deserve to be laid down for at least a few years.

As with last week, these wines were tasted prior to bottling, at a tasting held by Berry Brothers & Rudd in London. Some of the wines will be shipped at a later date by other importers, but the Berry Brothers en primeur offer represents a very good chance to buy into a very attractive vintage.

I have always been a huge fan of Burgundy, and its sole red grape, Pinot Noir.

At its best, it is a hugely seductive wine, with a silky smooth texture, and complex but always subtle flavours.

One of the most tantalising aspects is its ability to come up with a completely different set of flavours depending on where it is grown. Even a few hundred metres can make all the difference in Burgundy.

Pinot Noir has grown in popularity world-wide as a result of the film Sideways.

Outside of Burgundy, look to New Zealand, Chile and Oregon in the United States for the finest examples of the variety.

As with last week, the prices below are per case exclusive of Vat. Some of you will be shocked by the prices but these represent some of the finest wines that France, indeed the world, produces. In any case, by comparison with the lofty prices being asked for the same vintage over in Bordeaux (Ch Palmer at Euro1,500 a case? ) most of the wines below seem very reasonable.

Vosne-Romanée Domaine Jean Grivot 2005 Domaine Patrice & Michèle Rion Nuits St Georges 1er cru Clos des Argillières 2005 Domaine du Comte Armand Pommard 1er cru Clos des Epéneaux 2005 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2005 Price Euro350 at Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2 Euro521 at Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2 Euro674 at Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2 Euro862 at Berry Brothers, Harry Street, Dublin 2

Description A very promising wine, with seductive silky ripe cherry fruit, concentrated too, and an excellent, nicely tannic firm finish.

Lay down for about five years A stunning wine, with fantastic dense big firm meaty damson and cherry fruits. Rich and powerful, this will need at least five, but probably 10 years to show its true class A huge structured wine that calls for patience; massive amounts of firm cherries and cool summer fruits crossed with a delicious strong mineral streak and plenty of tannins on an immensely long dry finish. This needs 10 years, possibly more I adored this wine, with its sublime smooth, voluptuous, amazingly concentrated dark fruits, exotic spice, brilliant length, and perfect balance. A wine with a great future, but needs to be tucked away for a decade or more

Drink with Most offal would be great.

Try Simon Hopkinson's excellent sautéed veal kidneys with beurre noisette Your finest steak, grilled and served rare with a red wine sauce Try it with roast goose; the firm acidity would be a great match for all of that fatty flesh When the time comes, this should be a perfect match for roast game birds

Score 17/20 18/20 18/20 19/20




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