First of all, it is rarely oaked (and if you ever get to taste one that has been, you will understand why);

secondly it is relatively low in alcohol, both new- and old-world versions usually coming in at around 13% alcohol.

Both of these factors make it easy to drink on its own, in the pub, or a wine bar, or at home.

Thirdly, in the case of New Zealand at any rate, there are very few truly awful wines - they may be relatively expensive, but at least they are consistently drinkable New Zealand can offer a bit more than fruity Sauvignon.

In reds it has my favourite variety, Pinot Noir, and there are some cracking white wines too.

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Chenin Blanc, and even Verdelho have been successfully tried out.

Riesling, that most noble of grapes has been the real star for me, with every style from the crisp and dry to the Germanic light and sweet available. There may not yet be a worldwide revival in Riesling, but the Kiwi versions sell very well.

So today is ABS day - anything but Sauvignon.

The wines below come from a range of very worthwhile producers - Villa Maria makes a range of fantastic clean crisp dry whites at very keen prices;

they are amongst my favourite value Kiwi wines.

Seifreid from Nelson, a beautiful region an hour's drive from Marlborough, makes a great range of red and white wines.

Lastly, Saint Clair, these days seen more in restaurants, makes a very decent, inexpensive Pinot Noir along with the Riesling below.

wine@tribune. ie I

Villa Maria Reserve Bin Riesling, 2006
Villa Maria Reserve Bin Pinot Gris, 2005
Seifried Estate Nelson Pinot Gris, 2005
Saint Clair Marlborough Riesling, 2006

Stockists Euro12.99-Euro13.99 from O'Brien's, Superquinn, Musgrave, Next Door nationwide and the Wicklow Arms OffLicence, Delgany, Co Wicklow Euro13.99 from O'Briens Wine Off-Licences Euro16.49 from Deveney's, Dundrum; Gibney's, Jus de Vine; McCabe's Wines; Cooper's, Limerick; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; The Naked Grape, Cork Euro13.99 from Joyce's Knocknacarra; On the Grapevine, Booterstown; Next Door, Arklow, Navan and Loughrea; The Wicklow Wine Co

Description A textbook New Zealand palate of concentrated crisp, green fruits, zingy lime acidity accompanied by elegant floral aromas Ripe pears and melons sprinkled with ginger in a mouth-watering, luscious glass of wine Melons and peaches in a richly fruity wine with hints of spice - long crisp and fairly dry Not the biggest wine, but still packed with intense flavours of grapefruit and orange with a mineral kick on the finish

Drink with Some mixed salad greens, topped with slices of warm rare lamb A chicken salad with toasted almonds Some lightly spiced prawns or scallops with coriander and oriental noodles Loin of pork with an apricot stuffing

Score 14/20 14/20 14.5/20 14/20