It is at home in southwest France, and Bordeaux in particular, and has travelled the world but only really found star status in Australia. Even there it is the most difficult wine to sell. In the Hunter Valley, where they produce worldclass Semillon, some growers are switching to Chardonnay.

In its youth it is light and fruity, but often nondescript, lacking in aromas and flavour on the palate too. But it can have a lovely creamy texture and has a natural affinity with oak. Given a few years, even unoaked examples can taste as if they have spent a few months in oak barrels, with their buttery texture and unique flavours of grilled nuts, lime zest and even a touch of spice.

The one shining success story in commercial terms has been in western Australia, where Cape Mentelle lead a posse of producers making some vibrant Sauvignon/Semillon blends. Sauvignon has commercial cachet and adds aroma and vibrancy to the Semillon. In return, the Semillon lends weight, texture and centre palate to the Sauvignon.

The two varieties have always been natural bed fellows - all of the great white wines of Bordeaux have a good ratio of both.

The natural susceptibility of Semillon grapes to rot on the vine makes them perfect for sweet wines.

Three of the Australian dry variety are listed here, along with one of the best from Bordeaux. Also try the wonderful Brokenwood Semillons and, best of all, Tyrrells' Vat 1 Semillon. The current vintage, 1999, shows amazing potential.

L'Abeille de Fieuzal, Pessac-Léognan, Bordeaux 2000 Cullen Margaret River Sauvignon Semillon, Western Australia 2005 Tim Adams Clare Valley Semillon, South Australia 2005 Will Taylor Hunter Valley Semillon, Australia 2000

Stockists Euro28 from Donnybrook Fair; Redmond's, Ranelagh; Jus de Vine, Portmarknock; O'Briens Wine Offlicences; Terry's, Limerick Euro22.99 from Enowine, IFSC; Essence of Wine, Moore St Plaza; Fallon & Byrne; Hole in the Wall; Jus de Vine; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Listons, Camden St; Uncorked, Rathfarnham Euro15.99 at Tesco Euro21.95 at Egan's Too, Liscannor, Co Clare; Gaffneys, Nenagh; Co Tipperary; McCambridges Off-licence, Galway;

Approach Trade, Carrick-on-Suir

Description Excellent toasty, waxy flavours and aromas, with a lovely rich centre-palate, a lively citrus edge and a lingering dry finish. The newer 2002 vintage is good, but more youthful; see if you can find the 2000 first.

Subtle and wonderfully harmonious wine with fresh grassy aromas, a medium palate of subtle vanilla and rich melon fruits, but still retaining a lovely freshness.

Always a personal, favourite, this reached a new state of near perfection when tasted last week; concentrated rich melons and pears, complemented by some spicy oak and shot through with zingy lime acidity.

Brilliant wine. Enjoy now or keep.

A youthful example, but utterly gorgeous already, with light zingy lime and soft pears and a lovely lift on the dry finish. As with the Tim Adams, it would be a shame not to enjoy it now, but it will only get better.

Drink with Skate with black butter A Thai chicken dish with lemongrass, basil and lime would be perfect, so long as you go easy on the chilli Drink it with anything, or by itself, but it tastes great with roasted root vegetables in a lightly spicy tomato sauce Prawns with avocado and a herby dressing

Score 17/20 15.5/20 17/20 15/20