Trendy wine-buffs such as myself prefer small domaines from unknown, unpronounceable appellations of France to corporate entities producing large quantities of wine designed to please the greatest number of people - something Chile does well. Then I was invited to Chile - the cynics might suggest a junket will allow any hack to lose his prejudices quickly, but the visit did change my mind about Chilean wine.

There are some exciting new regions emerging and the Chileans are discovering more about the established areas too. The result is a far wider range of tastes and flavours.

This week, four very different Sauvignons. Casa Marin is a highly rated boutique winery in San Antonio, four kilometres from the cooling Pacific breezes. Surprisingly the wines are big and powerful, but with excellent acidity too. It tastes almost like a cross between a Sauvignon and a Viognier.

The second is exactly that, with some Chardonnay. VCS, or Viognier, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, is an unlikely blend that works brilliantly, as does just about everything that Vina Tamaya. The vineyards are planted in semidessert, with year-round sunshine balanced by cooling sea breezes. The result: elegant fresh wines, with a perfect ripeness.

The Cousino Macul is a close relation of Sauvignon Gris. Once fashionable, it fell out of favour because of low yields. However, the wines can be very good - rich and full-bodied with good acidity.

Lastly, Casablanca is the best-known 'new' region, famous for some expressive Sauvignon.

Casa Marin Laurel Vineyard Sauvignon, San Antonio, 2004
Casa Tamaya VCS, LimarA- Valley, 2006
Cosino Macul Sauvignon Gris, Maipo Valley, 2004
Santa Rita Medalla Real Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca, 2005

Stockists Euro23.95 exclusively from Wines Direct, Mullingar (by mail order - 1890 579 679, www. winesdirect. ie) Euro12.95 from Power & Smullen in Lucan or Donnybrook Fair Euro12.50 from Devine Wines, Portmarknock; Martin's Off Licence, Fairview; and all Lemongrass restaurants Euro18.99 from Superquinn;

Nolans Supermarket, Malahide; JC Savage, Swords; Deveneys, Dundrum

Description Big, rich and rounded, with powerful peach and pineapple fruits lingering very nicely on the palate.

No shrinking violet - this is a wine with real power and personality.

Whistle-clean fresh fruit salad - pears, peaches and apples combine perfectly in a beautifully crafted aromatic wine that is a joy to drink.

A very moreish wine with textured, rich pear fruits, offset nicely by notes of lemon. Vibrant and aromatic with an exotic touch.

Classic modern Sauvignon from Chile showing those clean citrus notes, backed up by some rich peach and pineapple, with hints of gooseberry and grass, finishing up on a pleasant dry note.

Drink with Something with attitude, such as grilled goat's cheese salad.

A good all-rounder with fish or white meats. In Chile the dish of choice would be grilled sea-bass with a herby tomato salsa.

One to try with Thai foods - crab, prawns or chicken in a green curry sauce.

Any of those dips and salsas with toasted pitta breads - taramasalata, hummus or, best of all, guacamole.

Score 20/20 for novelty, 14/20 for enjoyment 15/20 13/20