Australia always had a lot of Syrah (or Shiraz as they call it), but these days South Africa, Chile, Argentina and even New Zealand are all keen to get in on the act.

In the northern Rhone, (think of Hermitage, St Joseph and Cornas), it makes for some of the world's greatest wines; in their youth they are deep in colour, often exquisitely perfumed, with cool plummy, tarry fruits, but they age wonderfully.

The French contribution today comes via a thrilling tasting held by Rhone specialists Tyrrell & Co. This was the best range of wines I have tasted in a long time . . . I would love to have spent the day there. Yann Chave is a modest guy who is happy to let his wines do the talking. His 2005s even beat his 2004s.

Stephane Montez is one of a new breed of younger winemakers from the northern Rhone. His more expensive wines (St Joseph, Cote Rotie) are superb, but the wine below is a great starting point.

Most of us know the big gutsy spicy Shiraz of the Barossa Valley, but the Clare Valley, not too far away, offers a touch of elegance. Look out for Mount Horrocks, Mitchell, Tim Adams Jim Barry, and Wakefield. This is the second Tim Adams wine I have written-up in as many weeks. I can assure readers I do not own shares in the company . . . I just love the wines.

Clonakilla, an estate receiving huge praise for its more subtle style of Shiraz is based near Canberra. Set up by John Kirk in the 1960s, Clonakilla is the name of the family home in Clare.

Syrah, Les Hauts de Monteillet, Vin de pays des Collines Rhodaniennes, 2005 Stockists 12.99 from Cheers, Donnybrook Fair, Vanilla Grape, Fallon & Byrne, Gaffneys, Uncorked, On the Grapevine, Sweenys, The Vintry, Grange Con Cafe

Description Light elegant dark fruits, cut through with a fine refreshing 'cut' and a lovely mineral element.

Drink with A wild mushroom risotto, or sausages with lentils.

14/20

Crozes-Hermitage 'Les Rouvres', Domaine Yann Chave, 2005 Stockists 22.99 from Jus de Vine, Portmarknock; Uncorked, Rathfarnham, and Redmonds of Ranelagh, or call Tyrrell & Co on 045 870882.

Description A brilliant wine that deserves to be put away for a year or two, but I doubt mine will last very long. Wonderful damson fruits of great purity, very concentrated, yet never anything but elegant, finishing with a very long dry firm tannic finish. At this price an utter steal.

Drink with Drinking now, I would decant it an hour before trying it with venison. In a few years time, roast game birds would do very nicely.

17.5/20

.Clonakilla Hilltops Shiraz, Canberra, 2004 Stockists 22.50 from Redmonds, Ranelagh; Enowine, IFSC; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Listons, Camden St; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Cellars, Naas Rd; Baily Wines, Howth.

Description A superbly perfumed nose of violets and dark fruits, leading on to a big, broad mouthful of plums and raspberries, and spice; fullbodied and rich without ever being over-the-top.

Drink with A warming lamb casserole, either Irish stew, or a tagine with apricots and almonds.

16/20

Tim Adams Shiraz, Clare Valley, 2004 Stockists 16.99 from Tesco.

Description An awesome burst of perfectly ripe but lively dark fruits with some pepper and spice; balanced, long and a joy to drink.

Drink with A dry-aged striploin steak, chargrilled on the outside, bloody within.

17/20