Multi-purpose reds will partner most dishes, from the richest beef stew to lightest pasta or even fish. The first rule is to avoid anything that has high levels of tannins that dry out the mouth. These are great with red meats and game, but can jar terribly with fish - this means no red Bordeaux, Barolo or Cahors. Big powerful wines can also be troublesome - they will overwhelm everything but the most substantial food. What is needed is a smooth, medium-bodied red wine with plenty of flavour but light on the tannins.

If you like French wines, think Chinon and Saumur-Champigny from the Loire, juicy ripe Beaujolais, a young fruity red Burgundy or possibly a lighter Rh�ne.

From Italy, an inexpensive Chianti or a Valpolicella is perfect. Spain offers one of the best all-rounders of all in Rioja. From the new world, the best options are Pinot Noir, a fruity Merlot or a medium-bodied Shiraz from Australia.

This week I have chosen two Riojas: the Allende from the irrepressible MiguelAngel Gregorio and the Luis Ca�as, which punches way above its weight. Either will go with most meat, vegetarian or pasta dishes. The Redfin Shiraz-Grenache offers better value than many branded Aussies at the same price. Drink it with any red or white meats. Lastly, the Waipara Springs Pinot is probably the best all-rounder, and a great wine besides - perfect with full-flavoured fish dishes or even the most powerful game dish.

Finca Allende Rioja Cosecha 2001 Stockists Euro24.50 from Berry Brothers & Rudd, Harry St.

DescriptionWonderful, velvety smooth ripe cherry and cassis fruit, showing some lovely development and plenty of power too - a very seductive wine of real class and excellent length.

Eat with the local speciality - a roast leg of lamb, served with all the trimmings.

16.5/20 .

Redfin Shiraz-Grenache South Australia 2004 Stockists Euro10.99 from Fallon and Byrne, Exchequer St; Donnybrook Fair;

Mortons; McCabes; Uncorked; 64 Wine; O'Donovans; Patrick Stewart Wines, Sligo; The Vineyard, Galway.

Description Big, but not overblown, with very classy, bright, clean ripe plum and blackcurrant fruits and a liveliness and freshness throughout.

Eat with meatballs in tomato sauce with pasta or a really good burger.

13/20

Luis Ca�as Rioja Crianza 2004 Stockists Euro13.50 from Jus de Vine, Portmarnock; Bin No 9, Goatstown;

Power Wine Merchants, Lucan; Red Island, Skerries; Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Baily Wine Shop, Howth; Mac's Off Licence, Limerick;

Next Door; The Old Stand, Mullingar.

Description A lovely young Rioja bursting with vibrant but very smooth, satisfying dark fruits, subtly spiced with vanilla and some light tannins kicking through on the finish.

Eat with grilled lamb chops marinated in cumin and onion, served pink, with a salad of baby gem lettuces.

13.5/20

Waipara Springs Premo Pinot Noir, New Zealand 2004 Stockists Euro20.99 from Redmonds; The Bottleshop; On the Grapevine; 64 Wine, Glasthule; Sweeney's; McHugh's; Masters Wine Warehouse, Waterford; Thomas Woodberry, Galway.

Description Subtle smoky notes provide a perfect backdrop to some sophisticated piquant dark cherry and redcurrant fruits. Lightly textured and very elegant, this offers great value.

Eat with seared tuna with a sesame and black pepper crust.

15/20