WHY GO NOW?

Because the Somerset spa town, which features prominently in the novels of its most famous resident Jane Austen, assumes centre-stage this spring with a glut of films based on the author's life and work. These include Becoming Jane (opening 16 March), which explores Austen's romance with a young Irishman, Tom Lefroy, an affair thought to have inspired Pride and Prejudice's Elizabeth Bennett and Mr Darcy.

GETTING THERE Aer Lingus and Ryanair fly direct to Bristol International Airport, just 15 miles from Bath. The Airport Flyer express coach departs every half hour to Bristol Temple Meads railway station, from where frequent trains make the 15-minute trip to Bath. Bath tourist information centre is a 10-minute walk from the station, in the shadow of beautiful Bath Abbey.

CHECKING IN Like Northanger Abbey's Catherine Morland, I was "soon settled in comfortable lodgings in Pulteney Street" - or rather, at Membland Guesthouse on Pulteney Road (0044 7958 599572), where bed and an excellent breakfast is available from around Euro65.

Its sister establishment, Marlborough House, at No 1 Marlborough Lane (0044 1225 318175), is a more upmarket and romantic affair, fully organic and vegetarian, and offering B&B from around Euro100.

TAKE A HIKE Its status as a World Heritage site makes Bath worth a wander and, as the town is only half-a-mile across, you can walk to all the sites. A must-see is the Roman Baths, a magnificent temple and bathing complex that still flows with natural hot water from Britain's only hot spring. The extensive ruins and treasures are beautifully preserved and presented, quite negating the audioguide voiced by the irritating Bill Bryson. Included in your admission is a slurp of the disgusting but health-giving waters, for which various Austen characters were "ordered to Bath for the benefit of a gouty constitution".

Next up, check out the town's Georgian architecture, resplendent in the golden sandstone that gives Bath a year-round glow.

Meander by the Royal Crescent, the Circus and the Assembly Rooms before working your way back to Pulteney Bridge, which rivals Florence's Ponte Vecchio for beauty.

This is also a good spot to drop some dosh as the bridge has lots of quirky shops built into it, though if you just want to look at it the best view is from Parade Gardens park by the crescent weir. And if you want to go further afield, Bath is just a short bus-ride away from Stonehenge and Glastonbury.

FOOD MATTERS Pick up a delicious takeaway lunch from Blackstones Kitchen on Queen Street or sit down and enjoy robust organic fare at its sister spot across the way, Blackstones Restaurant. Also good for lunch and dinner is the Olive Tree Restaurant at the Queensberry Hotel on Russell Street, where modern English combines with Mediterranean influences. And Demuths on North Parade Passage is a wonderful vegetarian spot that would sway even the most die-hard carnivore.

Bath is, of course, famous for its buns and afternoon teas, and there's no more elegant - or more Austen-like - spot to enjoy them than at the Pump Room adjoining the Roman Baths. Or you could tuck into a large, airy, brioche concoction known as the "Sally Lunn" around the corner at, er, Sally Lunn's Refreshment House, the oldest dwelling in Bath.

SUNDAY MORNING, GO TO CHURCH Established in 1499, Bath Abbey is the last of the great medieval churches of England.

The West Front is unique as it depicts the dream that inspired the Abbey's founder, Bishop Oliver King, to pull down the ruined Norman cathedral and raise the present building on its foundations.

Over the past 12-and-a-half centuries, three different churches have occupied the site of today's abbey: an Anglo-Saxon abbey church dating from 757, pulled down by the Norman conquerors of England soon after 1066; a massive Norman cathedral begun about 1090, which was larger than the monastery could afford to maintain and by the end of the 15th century was in ruin; and the present abbey church founded in 1499, ruined after the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539 by order of Henry VIII. Religious services have been conducted on the site for over 1,000 years and continue to this day.

HAVE A BATH It took a while but, after years of delay and millions in over-runs, the Thermae Bath Spa (www. thermaebathspa. com) has finally brought thermal bathing back to Bath.

With several pools and a choice of over 50 spa treatments and activities, I can confirm that, on a chilly day, it would be hard to beat swimming around this stunning building's open-air rooftop pool, pausing only to indulge in a hydro-powered shoulder massage and to look out over the spires of Bath.

CULTURE VULTURE The Jane Austen Centre offers a snapshot of life during Regency times and explores how living in Bath influenced the author, while the Theatre Royal at Saw Close (www. theatreroyal. org. uk) has a full dramatic programme with superb cuttingedge performances at its offshoot, The Egg.

Bath also boasts several good festivals, including its Literature Festival from 3 to 11 March, International Music Festival from 18 May to 3 June, The Roman Baths by Torchlight from 1 July to 31 August, The Jane Austen Festival from 21 to 30 September and, last but not least, the excellent Bath Film Festival (October to November), where I caught several top arthouse movies last winter, months before they came to Dublin.

Further details on all of the above can be found on www. visitbath. co. uk.