I have always been a big fan of the Talmard Macon-Uchizy. Recent vintages have changed in style, but the wine still represents a real bargain. Chicken and Chardonnay are made for each other, but this would be equally at home with any fish or seafood. I would also use it as a posh aperitif before dinner.

The Alsace Riesling below is not cheap, but it is worth every cent - if this was a Meursault or other white Burgundy, it would cost twice as much. If you are having a posh dinner party, this is the wine to use, whether for seafood, fish or chicken.

The Viognier is a more controversial choice, a fairly big wine with a substantial 14.5% alcohol. But most Viognier, so long as it is not too heavy or oaked, is a different but stylish partner for the richer fish dishes such as tuna, monkfish, or salmon, as well as crab, lobster and scallops. It will also stand up nicely to spices. New world versions, with ripe fruit, show really well with Indian, Thai, Vietnamese and North African foods.

I have written about the Tahbilk Marsanne before. Not only is it is one of the great food wines, it also happens to be one of my all-time favourite tipples. The variety is originally from the Rh�ne, but Tahbilk have made it something of a speciality. Not only is it gorgeous in its youth, but it ages magnificently too. This is the ultimate all-purpose white, great on its own, with just about any seafood, fish, chicken or pork dish. It will partner lighter pasta, risottos and I have tried it very successfully with a baked ham, as well as roast pork.