It was only recently I came across Shu, an Irish company specialising in premium sake. My previous experiences left me unprepared for real sake. I was expecting something rough, but all of the wines were smooth, mellow, and subtle.

Any time I had tried sake before, it was served warm in small earthenware cups.

This is traditional in winter, but in summer it is lightly chilled to around 5� C.

Heating Sakes does mask the flavours, not something you want with a high-quality drink. Traditionally sake is brought to the table in a small ceramic flask (a tokkuri) and drunk from a small cup (a choko).

Although referred to as a rice wine, the manufacturing process bears a greater resemblance to beer - a mould is added, converting the starch in rice to sugar. The rice is then mixed with a yeast mash which ferments the sugars into alcohol.

Most sake is 15-25% alcohol. The rice is milled prior to the mould being added.

Daiginj means the sake has been polished to 50% or less. Junmai, meaning pure, is made from rice only, and has had no alcohol added. A junmaidauginj sake is the purest, most labour-intensive of all.

There are more than 600 different rice grown for sake, although 10 predominate.

As with brewing, it is important to have a source of pure water. The Kyoto area is noted for having the hardest water. At present there are more than 2,000 breweries in Japan, with others springing up elsewhere. The balance of a sake is measured by nihonshu-do - alcohol and sweetness, roundness and bitterness are taken into account to come to score that runs from -30 (the sweetest) to +15.

Junmai Daiginjo Akashi-Tai 17.5% Stockists Euro41.88 from Donnybrook Fair or Shu (045) 480 759 Description Light fragrant nose leading on to a wonderfully pure, silky mouthful with almonds and grilled nuts; quite full-bodied and rich with an off-dry finish.

Drink with Seafood, lobster or oysters.

16.5/20 .Nanbu-Bijin Junmai Ginjo 15.8% Stockists Euro37.15 from Donnybrook Fair or Shu (045) 480 759 Description This was a fascinating drink - subtle flavours of almonds, not un-like a fino sherry, but light plum fruits; it really opens out on the finish with some lovely savoury notes. A richer, nutty style.

Drink with Sushi and sashimi.

15/20 Genmai Yamadanishi 2002 - 15.5% .

Stockists Euro35.45 from Donnybrook Fair or Shu (045) 480 759 Description A vintage Sake made from unpolished brown rice. Slightly cloudy in appearance, with a tan colour, it comes in a great bottle.

Distinct aromas and flavours of nuts, very fino-like, but richer and much softer. Almost sweet and sour.

Drink withMore savoury dishes. Roast duck, or beef stews.

15/20 Shiraume Umeshu 14.5% .

Stockists Euro26.40 from Donnybrook Fair or Shu (045) 480 759 DescriptionMade with the addition of plums. A deep colour, with amazing pure tangy plum and lemon flavours, and a medium sweet finish. Similar flavours to a sloe gin, but with far greater subtlety and much smoother.

Eat with As an aperitif with carbonated water, or with desserts.

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