The delightful town of Pragelato offers plenty of exercise with its slopes but also plenty of excess with its food and wine, writes Isabel Hayes
IN the mayor's office of the Italian alpine village Pragelato, they referred to the project as Cool Runnings. It might not have been a bunch of Jamaicans trying to bobsled in the winter Olympics, but it wasn't far off. Instead, a group of Irish investors, led by developer Paddy Kelly, came together in 2005 to set up an exclusive ski resort in the Alps, just one hour from Turin airport. Given that the closest Ireland gets to have a skiing resort is the fake slopes in Kilternan, Co Wicklow, the mayor of Pragelato might be forgiven for being surprised. But what the investors didn't know about skiing, they made up for in knowledge of the Irish market and the results in Pragelato have been amazing.
This is where I find myself en route to at 4.30 in the morning, yawning in Dublin airport and worrying about over-baggage.
Pragelato's location is amazing in that, unlike other ski resorts, it is so close to a major airport, which is just two hours from Dublin.
The fly in the ointment is Ryanair's baggage charges. I defy anyone to pack ski gear that weighs under 15 kilos.
All the same, it's worth it to arrive at Pragelato at 12 noon with most of the day ahead of us. This little village, at 1,600 metres above sea level, has recently received a fresh blanket of snow and with lows of -150, the snug chalets look incredibly inviting.
And their interiors don't disappoint. Each chalet is fitted with king-size beds, comfy couches, state-of-the-art flatscreen TVs, fully-fitted kitchens and enormous power showers. A freshly-baked raspberry crumble, fluffy white dressing gown and slippers are placed enticingly around the apartment and a bottle of Prosecco in ice is just waiting to be tasted.
These are just the executive suites . . . in the luxury apartments (of which there are just three in the resort), Bang and Olufsen sound systems, massive log fires and beautiful baths on old-fashioned pedestals are added to the trappings.
For some reason, I had great ideas of this skiing trip being one prolonged work-out session from which I would emerge with lean limbs and toned thighs. Some chance. This lovely thought disintegrates quicker than my raspberry crumble. I might be here to ski, but with the amount of tasty food and drink on offer, eating is going to be a second sport.
There are three restaurants in Pragelato, each offering very different types of cuisine, and first stop is La Tuccia. Here, casual buffet dining is on offer, making it a good spot for breakfast and lunch. Eating done, it's time to ski.
Having only skied twice before I'm shaky enough at first but before long I've remembered why this sport is so addictive. With our instructor Marco (who specialises in doing life-threatening jumps any chance he gets) we are encouraged to push ourselves past the fear factor. And, amazingly, it works. By the next morning we are flying along faster than we ever envisaged we were capable of.
Pragelato is still in the process of perfecting its beginner Green and Blue slopes, but the neighbouring Sestriere more than makes up for it, with an abundance of accessible ski-lifts for the not-so-steady brigade.
Funnily enough, the vast majority of accidents occur amongst skiers who are either hungover or drunk on the slopes. But one glass of mulled wine at lunchtime is essential. We all ski so much better that afternoonf By now, weary limb syndrome is beginning to kick in. Carting skis around, walking around in heavy ski boots, constantly bending knees and holding arms out inevitably takes it toll. (If only it was enough to give me those toned limbs! ) By the end of the day, we are more than ready for the spa.
Located right in the middle of the resort, the Daniela Steiner spa is just a few (incredibly stiff) steps from wherever you're staying in Pragelato and, once through the doors, you become an entirely different person.
Sitting in my dressing-gown and slippers, perched on a huge sofa in the relaxation room, watching the snow falling outside and sipping on some camomile tea, I actually think I'm in heaven.
After an all-over body massage and a prolonged visit to the jacuzzi and steam room, every ache has miraculously disappeared and, while I don't quite feel ready to climb a ski slope, I'm more than ready for another dinner.
Tonight it's wine-tasting in La Taverna . . .a restaurant that resembles a wine cellar, with wooden beams, homely brick walls and (most importantly) tonnes of wine. As we swirl Barolo and Barbaresco wines around our mouths and eat local cheeses and meats, it's hard to imagine being anywhere better.
Pragelato is a small resort, so nightlife is restricted, but there is a spacious bar with live music every night and a seriously long list of cocktails. And really, this is the resort for a romantic couple getaway, or for a family with young children.
This is quite a unique aspect to Pragelato . . . skiing and young families almost never go well together, meaning enthusiastic couples often have to put the sport aside when children come along. But here, all visitors can avail of Casa Pinocchio, an action-packed nursery for children.
In Casa Pinocchio, children are taught to ski, given meals, play and naptime from early morning until 7.00 in the evening, allowing parents to take off to the slopes, if only for one day.
As much fun as skiing is, we're more than ready to try a new sport on our last day and so we go on a long snow trek. This involves putting on massive snow shoes (rather like tennis rackets) and walking around the national park that surrounds Pragelato.
The views around the mountains are simply fantastic . . . something that one doesn't really appreciate when you're trying to keep your balance on skis. This park is also a major tourist attraction in summer.
Snow shoe walking is just as exhausting as skiing however, and by the time we are leaving Pragelato, I'm aching all over. Note to self: must go to gym when home. All these good thoughts don't prevent me from taking a bottle of Barolo though. I'll start that diet after I've finished with it. . .
THE FACTS
Pragelato resort is offering three-, four- and seven-day breaks until 15 April.
Winter Weekend Escape, starting from / 1,723 for two people for four nights includes: Executive Suite Traditional Mountain Buffet Breakfast Half Board at 'La Tuccia' or 'La Taverna' restaurants Welcome Drink Fresh Pastry in room upon arrival Three-day ski pass Access to Casa Pinocchio Access to Daniela Steiner spa Daily Apres Ski drink Seven-night package prices start from /2,991 for two people sharing. Infants 0-2 go free and special rates are available for children up to 12 years.
There are three direct flights per week from Dublin to Turin with Ryanair and 23 direct weekly flights from Dublin and Shannon to Milan.
For reservations: www. pragelatoresort. com; Tel: 0039 0122 740 011; email reservations@pragelatoresort. com
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