At the top end, California produces plenty of world-class wines . . . the only problem is they also have a large, very wealthy, sophisticated local market, people only too ready to pay top dollar for these wines. Many are small-production cult wines, whose annual release is eagerly snapped up within weeks. My own favourites are Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel. Napa Cabs can be brilliant, a blend of perfectly ripe cassis and blackcurrant wrapped in a cloak of tannin to give it structure and style. To some, the wines of the famous Rutherford Bench in Napa Valley are comparable to the Grands Crus Classes of the Medoc. In fact, they have famously beaten the very best of Bordeaux in several blind tastings.

The only problem is they cost as much.

Zinfandel is the California's USP, a variety not often found outside. For a while it was thought the Primitivo of Italy was the same variety; more recent studies point to the un-known Croatina.

For me, the real king of Zin has always been Ridge, where Paul Draper fashions the most wonderful, throaty, earthy wines.

However they are not cheap, so at a recent tasting I tried every Zinfandel I could lay my hands on. The results were surprising.

Some of the best-known brands have improved greatly in quality. I have always had a weakness for the big, rich, ripe fruity reds, but both these and the white are no longer as sweet. Some were very good; the whites had clean fruits and a fairly crisp dry finish; the reds more style and elegance than I remember. All are keenly priced. Sadly there were also some pretty awful Zinfandels. However, I did come across some very affordable, wellmade wines in the 10-20 price bracket that can comfortably compete with their Australian and Chilean counterparts.

Gallo Turning Leaf Zinfandel 2005

Stockists 10.95 from Tesco, Dunnes, Superquinn, Supervalu, O'Briens, Molloys, Centra, Spar and a wide range of other shops.

Description

The basic Gallo Zin is pretty good, and costs less than 10.

The Turning Leaf has some very stylish loganberry and cherry fruits, a hint of spice and a long smooth finish. Great-value wine.

Drink with Spaghetti a la Puttanesca, pasta with a spicy tomato sauce with loads of garlic, anchovies and fresh herbs.

12/20

Vintners Blend Zinfandel 2003

Stockists 12.99-13.99 from Dunnnes Stores, Selected Next Door; O'Briens; The Ice Box, Ashbourne, Caprani's Ashford, and other outlets.

Description Forward smooth soft red cherry and blackcurrant fruits, with a nice purity and a rounded finish. A medium-bodied style but very enjoyable.

Drink with Lamb kebabs with grilled Mediterranean vegetables and rice.

14/20

Fetzer Bonterra Zinfandel 2004

Stockists 17.99 from The Corkscrew; Sweeneys, Glasnevin; O'Briens; Supervalu; McCabes, Blacklrock; World Wine Wines, Waterford; Donnybrook Fair; The Vintry, Rathmines; Kelly's Clontarf; Claudio's D2.

Description The Bonterra winery is devoted to organic wines. This is a fairly serious Zin with very fine, smooth, plump dark fruits and a nicely rounded finish. A great introduction to the variety.

Drink with Chilli con carne 14.5/20

Ravenswood Mendocino County Zinfandel 2001

Stockists 17.99-18.99 from Sweeneys, Glasnevin; Quinns, Drumcondra; The Vintage, Blackrock, all Dublin; Caprani's, Ashford, Mayo Description A big step up in quality with some delicious, fresh dark fruits with a real intensity and good length. There is a good meaty, richness to it, despite coming from the cooler Mendocino vineyards, and some finegrained tannins.

Drink with Steak and Kidney Pie.

15/20