The first of the 2005 vintage have now arrived. This would appear to be what a friend of mine calls an 'idiot' vintage . . . a year in which even the most inept wine maker could not fail to make a good wine. The millennium vintage of 2000 has also received high praise, much of it deserved. There are some lovely ripe wines with real structure and length.

But, with all of the hype surrounding these two vintages, it is easy to forget about the intervening years, some of which offer great value and are drinking far better at the moment. You will see them referred to as 'classic' wines, which used to mean unripe and scrawny, but these days Bordeaux offers far greater consistency in so-called lesser years.

The 2001 vintage produced a wonderful combination of cool but ripe dark fruits, balanced by peppery tannins. The 2002 vintage was probably the least fancied of all in the new millennium but these days in Bordeaux a competent winemaker can make a silk purse from a sow's ear. There are a number of enjoyable, mature wines from this much-maligned vintage and they are a delight now. They may be light on fruit, but they are elegant with decent length. Do not be tempted to cellar them . . .

these are not wines to lay down.

In 2003 . . . the year when France baked in incredibly high temperatures all summer . . . there was talk of another 'vintage of the century'. It should have been perfect ripening weather for cooler areas such as Bordeaux but the intense heat often caused vines to 'close down' so the wines are a curious mix of ripe fruit and hard green tannins. The best are very good, and will improve for many years, but this was a year that required skill in the vineyard.

CH LA CROIX CANON, CANON-FRONSAC 2001 Stockists: 19.50 from Searsons, Monkstown; The Vintry, Rathmines;

Listons Food Hall, Camden St; Supervalu, Killester; Walsh Enterprises, Westport.

Description: An excellent, Merlot-based wine from one of the lesserknown appellations. Brisk peppery tannins balance the svelte ripe plum fruits perfectly.

Drink with: roast lamb . . . ideally a shoulder stuffed with anchovies and garlic to complement the tannins.

15/20 .SAN FELICE POGGIO ROSSO CHIANTI CLASSICO RESERVA 2000 Stockists: 24.99 (down from 33) for April from O'Briens off-licences.

Description: A very seductive ripe palate of dark cherries and cassis; it is rich and rounded without ever being heavy and finishes on a sweet note.

Classy wine.

Drink with: Chianti is a great partner for lamb. Try it with chargrilled cutlets or a roast rack of lamb.

16/20 LA CROIX BONIS, SAINT-ESTEPHE 2003 Stockists: 17.99 (down from 23.99) for April from O'Briens off-licences.

Description: The most full-bodied of the four wines, with plenty of meaty dark fruit held together by a burly tannic structure and a dry finish.

Great food wine.

Drink with: This needs something robust . . . try grilled lamb steaks with a garlicky gremolata.

14/20 .

CH CAMBON LA PELOUSE, CRU BOURGEOIS HAUTMEDOC 2002 Stockists: 18.99 (down from 29.99) for Easter from Superquinn.

Description: Shows a delicious maturity, with soft ripe blackcurrants, a slight spiciness and an easy rounded finish. Not one for keeping, but lovely right now.

Drink with: Classic roast lamb, served slightly pink, but hold off on the mint sauce . . . it will kill any wine stone dead.

15/20 .