The flat plains of the Veneto surrounding Venice produce the bulk of the Pinot Grigio you find. But, move a few kilometres north to the sub-Alpine slopes of Trentino and Alto-Adige, and you can find some very stylish white wines. Friuli to the east is sub-divided into a dozen or so areas . . . I list two below.

Alsace, considered the home of Pinot Gris, makes a very different style . . . richer and more powerful, usually dry, but occasionally sweet. Either way, superb. The drier versions are ideal with richly sauced fish and chicken dishes, the sweet with foie gras.

Further afield, Germany and Austria both have reasonably large plantings of Pinot Gris. The Austrian examples work better for me, particularly the sweet versions. Eastern Europe has real potential, but has yet to fulfil its promise . . . with one exception. In Slovenia, along the border with Italy, you can find some brilliant Pinot Gris; sadly none have made their way to Ireland yet.

Pinot Gris is the buzz-word in Australia and New Zealand these days, partly due to Chardonnay fatigue, but also because of their affinity with Asian and fusion foods.

The better Aussie examples tend to come from the cooler climates. Over the sea in New Zealand, there are some even more impressive versions, filled with ripe fruit, but given interest by the Kiwi citrus acidity.

These wines are great on their own, but really sing with oriental-style seafood, pork and chicken dishes.

Arrigo Bidoli Pinot Grigio, Grave, 2006 Stockists 10.99 exclusively from Marks & Spencer Description Enticing melon aromas; broad, refined textured melons and ginger with a zesty dry finish. A step up from your everyday Pinot Gris.

Drink with Avocado with prawns 12/20

Huia Pinot Gris, Malborough, New Zealand, 2006 Stockists O'Donovan's, Cork; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Harvest, Galway:

Uncorked, Rathfarnham and other independent offlicences.

Description A big wine, fullbodied and rich with delicious marzipan and textured pears and melons.

Drink with A rich seafood stew or soup.

14.5/20

I Feudi di Romans, Rive Alte Isonzo del Friuli, 2005 Stockists 15.99 from Michael's Wines, Mt Merrion; McCabes, Foxrock; 64 Wine, Glasthule Description Crisp and fresh with plenty of citrus.

Drink with Some crusty bread and a plate of the finest Prosciutto.

13.5/20

Zind Humbrecht Heimbourg Pinot Gris, Alsace, 2002 Stockists 36.99 from us de Vine, 64 Wines, Glasthule;

Uncorked, Rathfarnham;

O'Donovans, Cork; Lilac Wines, Philibsburgh Ave;

Description A wine that explodes with an intensity of rich honeyed fruit cut with lime, notes of barley-sugar and a lovely spiciness Drink with Pate de Foie Gras.

16.5/20