So you can look beyond the battlements and ramparts of the Castle or the tranquillity of the Nore . . . Kilkenny has a thriving commercial centre that goes further than arts and crafts . . . indeed, it has a food and drink culture which can rival that in any city or town in Ireland.

"I have been living in Kilkenny for six or seven years now, " said Will Fitzgerald, proprietor of Blueberry, a popular delicatessen in the city. "It is quite a vibrant city, but I wouldn't go as far as to say that it was ultra-trendy, even though some people seem to think that it is. Of course, we have the downside, which is the stag and hen parties, but in general, Kilkenny has a good mix of people . . . even if some of them are just coming for the heritage."

Blueberry is a good example of the sort of food offering that is now available in Kilkenny, with its homecooked produce and wholesome ingredients. But if you are looking for a perfect blend of quality food and lively action, then you could try The Rafter Dempsey's pub, restaurant and guesthouse, or Paris Texas for a little of the Tex Mex experience (with a lot more thrown in).

While some regional towns can suffer from a lack of quality restaurants, Kilkenny is no regional town . . . it is a city in its own right, with all the diversity and quality that people would expect. It is easy to get sidetracked by all the charm and heritage, but if you look a little beyond the Parade, there is a host of niches, nooks and crannies just waiting to be discovered.