SPRING is most definitely in the air, and one of my favourite ingredients, asparagus, is just coming into its own now. The length of the asparagus season is quite short, just six or so weeks, from the end of April to the start of June. So make the most of it now as it is so delicious cooked and served in many different ways.

I suppose the most classic way, and one of the best ways, to enjoy asparagus is simply boiled and served with a warm hollandaise sauce, on toast or not. I also love to slice the boiled stalks and add them into salads. Or try throwing them on the barbecue, tossed with olive oil and sea salt first. They are also wonderful, once cooked, wrapped in a blanket of parma ham and eaten as an al fresco treat with a glass of prosecco.

Added into risotto with prawns they make a divine supper on these long sunny evenings, or toss with pasta, parma ham and creme fraiche for a quick delicious meal.

ASPARAGUS TIPS Always remove the tough end of the asparagus, and discard, just two or 4cms at the base of the stalk, wherever it will break when you snap it.

RISOTTO WITH PRAWNS AND ASPARAGUS Serves 4 Three tbsp olive oil One small onion, peeled and finely chopped 350g Arborio, carnaroli, or vialone nano rice 100ml white wine Up to two litres light chicken stock, kept hot 12 asparagus stalks, boiled until just tender, sliced at an angle, but keep the tips aside 200g cooked peeled prawns Sea salt and freshly ground pepper 25g butter In a saucepan, cook the olive oil and the chopped onion together until the onions are soft but not browned.

Add all the rice and stir it around with the onions to toast the grains thoroughly without browning. After about three minutes, add the wine, and stir it in for about two minutes. Then add the first three ladles of hot stock and stir it through.

Continue to add the stock and stir it in each time the spoon opens up a clear wake behind it during the cooking process.

After about 15 minutes, which is five minutes from the end of the cooking time, add in the asparagus spears (not the tips yet) and the prawns and continue to cook the risotto, taking care not to destroy the asparagus spears or the prawns. Taste and season with salt and pepper to taste.

When the risotto is cooked (the rice grains are firm to the bite but cooked, and the texture is creamy), remove from the heat and stir in the butter.

Cover and rest for four minutes, stir again and transfer to a warmed serving dish to serve at once, garnished with the reserved asparagus tips.

GARLIC AND CAPERS I love this with pan-grilled or barbecued lamb chops.

Serves 4 400g asparagus Two tbsp olive oil One large garlic clove, very thinly sliced One tbsp large capers in brine, rinsed and drained Juice of half an orange Preheat the oven to 2000C. Snap off the tough woody ends of the asparagus. Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add the asparagus and boil for two minutes until crisp, but beginning to go tender. Drain and refresh under cold water, then dry on kitchen paper.

Place the asparagus in a roasting tray and drizzle with the olive oil to coat the asparagus spears.

Scatter over the garlic slivers and capers and roast for eight to 10 minutes until the asparagus is tinged, browned and cooked through . . . test by inserting a knife into a few spears. Sprinkle with orange juice, season to taste, and serve warm.

CHARGRILLED ASPARAGUS WITH PARMESAN OLIVE OIL This makes a great accompaniment to simply cooked fish or chicken, or part of many salads for a barbecue.

Serves 4 12 asparagus stalks (three per person) Two tbsp olive oil 25g parmesan, finely grated 50ml olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Blanch the asparagus stalks in plenty of boiling water for two to three minutes, drain and refresh in cold water. Toss the asparagus in a bowl with two tablespoons of olive oil.

Heat a griddle pan until hot, then chargrill the asparagus for two to three minutes.

In a small bowl, mix together the grated parmesan with the oil and seasoning, to taste.

Remove the chargrilled asparagus onto a plate, and drizzle the parmesan oil over the top.

PENNE WITH ASPARAGUS AND PARMA HAM I love this very simple and delicious pasta dish .

Serves 4 16 spears/stalks asparagus 400g penne, or something similar A small knob of butter Eight slices parma ham, roughly cut into strips Three tbsp creme fraiche Freshly ground black pepper 25g grated parmesan cheese Cook your penne according to the instructions on the packet.

Meanwhile, boil the asparagus for a few minutes until just cooked, cut each spear into three, at an angle, and toss in a little butter. When the pasta is cooked, drain it and return to the pan. Add the asparagus, parma ham, creme fraiche and black pepper to the pan and toss well.

Serve in warm bowls with a sprinkling of parmesan on top of each serving.

LEEK AND ASPARAGUS SOUP An easy soupwith a delicate flavour that takes no length of time to make.

One tbsp olive oil Half a leek, cleaned and finely chopped Four asparagus spears, chopped 150ml vegetable stock 100ml double cream Salt and freshly ground black pepper Crusty bread, to serve Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Add the leek and asparagus and saute for two-three minutes, to soften.

Add the vegetable stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to simmer gently for eight-10 minutes, until the asparagus is cooked through.

Transfer to a food processor, add the cream and blend until smooth. Return the soup to the pan, season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper and warm through gently.

To serve, pour into a soup bowl with the crusty bread placed on a plate alongside.

ASPARAGUS AND CREME FRAICHE TART Serve this with simply dressed salad leaves.

400g shortcrust pastry Flour 10g butter Four eggs One egg yolk One shallot, peeled and finely chopped 400ml creme fraiche Seasoning Two tbsp parsley, chopped 100g gruyere cheese, grated 400g asparagus, cold blanched Preheat the oven to 1900C, gas 5. Roll the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a square shape with sides of about 30cm.

Place the pastry in a 25cm flan ring greased with the butter. Leave the excess to hang over the edge and chill for 30 minutes.

Remove from the fridge and line the base of the pastry with baking parchment and fill with a good covering of flour. Place on a baking tray and bake blind for 20 minutes.

Remove the flour and baking parchment and return to the oven for another five minutes to cook the base. Trim the pastry around the edges and reduce the temperature of the oven to 1600C, gas 3.

For the filling, beat the eggs and shallot together with the creme fraiche and season well. Fold in the parsley and half the cheese and spoon the mixture onto the base of the tart. Top with the asparagus and cover with the remaining cheese. Bake in the oven for a further 30 minutes until set.

BOOK OF THE WEEK

'EATING OUTDOORS' by Lindy Wildsmith (Ryland, Peters and Small) is the perfect accompaniment to all that al fresco dining we can look forward to, with delicious recipes for barbecues, picnics and more formal ourdoor entertaining