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Doorstep Doctor Steve Guerin Whether you are building a house, repairing a broken window, or just need advice onplumbing, renovating, painting or tiling, fret not. Send in your questions to Steve. . .
Steve Guerin is managing director of www. tradesmenireland. com, the one-stop website that will help you find a tradesman, a site for sale, a property to rent or buy and all the plant hire and machinery you need to complete your house build or renovation



Q I would like your advice on drylining a wall. A few years ago I had the back walls of my house drylined because they were damp but unfortunately I did not do the side wall of a bedroom at the time. The previous owner of the house nailed large sheets of plywood to the wall. He must have had a reason for doing this so I'm sure the wall is damp. I didn't even realise the plywood was there until I removed the wallpaper. We haven't taken down the plywood yet but I'm really worried what we might find behind it. Unfortunately we got a laminated wooden floor put down a few years ago so this will probably make it more difficult to dryline the wall as the drylining has to fit in at the bottom where the wood and skirtingboard meet. Could you tell me are all plasterers capable of doing drylining in a competent manner and what might be a reasonable cost? The wall is about 12ft wide and 8ft high.

Lucan reader First of all let me say that I am not a big fan of drylining. In my opinion it is just covering up a problem rather than solving it. I myself have undertaken drylining for customers and see it as a short-term solution.

The general idea is to "x 2" x 1" timber battens to the wall with insulation sheets between the battens. Fit plasterboard to them then, applying skimcoat plaster to the boards. If the walls are damp when you fit the timber and insulation to the wall, you are creating a barrier that the dampness will hit and when it does it has nowhere else to go but in a downward direction.

This in theory leads to a lot more dampness at the base of the wall, which in turn attacks the bottom of the 2" x 1" timbers, skirting boards and flooring.

I would recommend that you solve the problem of the dampness by inserting a damp-proof course at the "oor level and also look into the possibility of applying a special coating to the outside of your property that will stop the rain from penetrating through the walls. If you wish to proceed with drylining, then all plasterers are capable of undertaking the task whether you obtain them from www. tradesmenireland or from another source.

Bear in mind that good plasterers are very much in demand and you may have to wait a while to secure one. I cannot put a costing on this work as there are so many different factors to consider. It would be best to obtain three quotes and look at any previous work they have undertaken.

Q I am not sure if this is the right forum to contact. I have had a blocked toilet for weeks. I have a management company but they are pretty useless and they told me to contact the builders when the problem kept reoccuring. A plumber from the builders has come out to look at it a few times and the problem could be serious like a crack in the pipe as the water keeps sucking away as well. They are going to put a camera down to see what the problem is. I am wondering what obligation do the builders have to fix it? The apartments are about five years old.

With a problem like a blocked toilet you really need to put pressure on all parties concerned.

Firstly, get back onto the management company as they don't seem to be doing their job properly. Do not take no for an answer. If you have a blocked toilet then it is a possibility that others in the apartment building have the same problem.

Contact your neighbours to see if they have are in the same situation.

As you have contacted the builders and they have sent a plumber out, then the chances are that they will rectify the problem. Builders should have a 10-year homebond or similar insurance policy in place which would cover you in this case.

Once again, get back onto the management company and keep the pressure on them.

Q I have a teak front door and it is badly warped. The house was only built six months ago. Should this have happened and what do you think caused this problem?

I am fairly certain that the door has warped due to the fact that it has not been closed properly since it was fitted. By this I mean that every door, whether teak or upvc, should have the handle pushed upwards every time it is closed. This keeps the door leaf fitting securely in the frame. There are three locking points in the doors that operate when you push the handle upwards (as when you want to lock the door).

They connect and will not let the door leaf twist due to changes in temperatures.

As the house is a new house you should contact the builders and point out the door problem to them.

WRITE TO US

If you have a building-/renovation-related query that you'd like Steve to help you with, email: doorstepdoctor@tribune. ie




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